Austria à la Carte lecture recording, Side B, Lisa Chickering and Jeanne Porterfield Collection

Web Video Text Tracks Format (WebVTT)


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Anyone of you who has traveled extensively through Europe I'm sure will agree that France is one of the most beautiful countries in Europe.

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Seem to be, well, more skyscrapers built each year. This is one of the handsomest of them.

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And now what do we see on the screen? It's Moomba time. What in the world is Moomba?

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Moomba is an Aborigine word which means "let's have fun," and uh

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for ten days, annually, everything comes to a complete standstill in Melbourne. All stores, all shops are closed.

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And the people, the children, the adults, everyone takes a part in Moomba.

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As far as parades go, I think our own Rose Bowl parade in Pasadena far surpasses it.

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But the fascinating thing are the tremendous numbers of people in the crowds that line the streets. Hundreds of thousands of them turn out daily.

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And we were so interested in filming the crowds and watching their reaction.

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Another hundred thousand go to the Flemington racecourse, and the great race of the day was won by this horse without a rider. [[Laughter]]

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Well, the people that had bet on the horse were furious that it was disqualified, and there was a great deal of action about it, a few fist fights and what not.

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The peoples of Australia, as I'm sure you've gathered already, are very sports-minded. And tens of thousands of them daily,

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gather along the Yarra River to watch events such as you're now seeing on the screen.

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Some of them bring their sleeping bags and will stay there overnight. Others have houseboats and will be moored along the shores.

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Australia seems to be a country of young people. Everyone seems to be quite young, and they certainly are fascinated with events such as now being

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Lead a very healthy, happy, out of door life.

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Well it's the end of February now and we're going to drive only a short distance to the northwest and we come to the town of Ballarat, and we're going to Ballarat for the Begonia festival.

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As we enter Ballarat we see this stop and go sign. It's lighted at night. It fascinated me, I think we really could introduce this into the USA.

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You know just how long a time you're in green before you'll move into red and then when you're in red how long a time it will be until the change will come about.

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There are other lovely flowers to be found in Ballarat, but it's the Begonias that draw visitors from not only all over Australia, but from the outside world as well.

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And thousands of pots of Begonias are to be seen during the Begonia show.

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If you like Begonias, there's no better place to view them then here in Ballarat. [Someone coughs]

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Well a short drive from the Begonia headquarters we came to a stop sign and I saw this elephant that was wondering about. Nobody seemed to be, well looking for him.

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We're a little bit far south for elephants and this chap moved right out into the middle of the road and nobody slowed down for him. Mrss Hall, my photographer's wife was in that little car there and then the elephant stopped and looked in the window.

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Well we soon found out that he belonged to a circus, and we got that information from the daughter of the owner of the circis.

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She was a very cute little girl and she was anxious that we photographed her baby wombat. Now there is no accounting for taste, but certainly children do come up with some peculiar pets and this was one of the strangest of them all. A baby wombat

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And wombats are found only in Australia. I can't think of a more unattractive pet, but this little girl didn't feel that way.

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That elephant was still standing there and frightening Mrs. Hall. He just wouldn't move off.

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Well, we drove them finally down to the airport. We're going to take the plane from here to Tasmania.

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Tasmania is the oldest of the states of Australia. It's the most mountainous island in the world, with the width of 190 miles, a length of 180, and here's the town of Hobart, a 100,000 population, nestling at the foot of Mt Wellington.

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The May Queen is the last of the barges, dates back over a century, and was on its final journey.

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We have come to Tasmania for one reason and one reason alone: we wanted to have a day with the scallop fleet, with the finest scallops that exist anywhere are to be found here in Tasmania only a short distance from Hobart.

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And there are 100 boats in the scallop fishing fleet. Fifty five were to be out on this particular morning, and it was 5 AM when we started on our journey.

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Now the 55 boats have a bit of maneuvering to do. Unlike the rock scallops of the USA, the scallops in Tasmania are free swimmers, and they're found here in this sound, in this narrow neck of water, and they are swimming along the sandy bottom of the sound.

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This rake-like leading edge to the wire basket is used to dig them out of the sand, and the young son of the owner of this particular craft was soon to be separating the legals from the shorts, throwing the shorts back into the water, placing the legals into a box, later to be packed in bags, taken to Hobart, and sent to the outside world.

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And if you have had, if you've ever had, scallops from Tasmania, you know how

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Well, the slightest tension on the line and he knows just how full the basket is at the boat.

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There's a good deal of cursing and shouting by the mariners here because there's so many boats and there's so little area for them to maneuver in.

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By 11 o'clock in the morning, our job was completed. A storm was expected.

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You can see the storm clouds in the distance, so we were glad to get back to Hobart.

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And we're going to fly from here to the north. In fact, north of Sydney to the Gold Coast.

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Now we mentioned earlier in the lecture this evening, that they are enjoying a tremendous economic boom in Australia.

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Great fortunes are being made overnight.

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And many of those people that are making the fortunes are constructing summer homes, weekend bungalows along the Gold Coast.

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There's also a good deal of construction of apartment houses and hotels in very gay and attractive colors.

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And the beach here is certainly different from the beaches that you find in the Sydney area.

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Most of those beaches are great coves.

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The beaches here will extend for 16, 17, 18 miles in length.

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The Vita tan man, well, he has more business than he can handle.

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And he has winter residents from Melbourne, and from uh Adelaide, from Tasmania, and when they arrived they want to get a tan in a hurry.

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So they have the oil sprayed onto them. Within 48 hours they'll be as brown as a berry.

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And so the Vita tan man, he works eight or ten hours a day.

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We're going to spend a couple of days here, and then we're driving south to Currumbin.

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And we're going to Currumbin to photograph the wild parrots. Well they weren't wild at all.

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And the moment that I appeared with some food, these fine-feathered friends descended on me by the dozen.

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I soon felt very much, like the late Queen Mother Mary of England.

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I was told about their beautiful colors, but they're rather difficult to observe when you find them in that particular position.

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[laughter in background]

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And how they ever got the name of being the wild parrots of Currumbin, I couldn't possibly tell you.

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But they never stopped eating. It's bird land again.

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And now, leaving the birds, we go back to the Koala Bear Country.

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They were so friendly down south I didn't see how they could be cross here at night.

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Now, between the tails of the kangaroos you'll find the Great Barrier Reef.

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And we're going to take this boat from Mackay. We're going out into the Whitsunday Islands.

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Now the Barrier Reef covers 80,000 square miles.

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It is 12,050 miles in length.

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At it's maximum width, 150 miles. At it's minimum width, only 12 miles.

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And here, is Brampton Island, one of the most attractive of them all.

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Total area of about three square miles. You'll find coconut trees and wild goats.

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And both the goats and the coconut trees were introduced by the government,

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so that if any shipwrecked mariners should find themselves in this area, this dates back many years ago,

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they would have a form of sustenance until they could be rescued.

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Now on Brampton there are beautiful, tropical flowers. There are modern bungalows.

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You can have your own bungalow, bedroom and shower,

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three excellent meals per day, all for $7 per day inclusive.

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And if you like a little painting, as this man from Melbourne did,

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well there are many beautiful scenes right there to transfer to your canvas.

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There is fishing and swimming and tennis,

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and there's fossiking, as we'll see later in our visit to Brampton this evening.

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Now, I was to charter a very small craft. Here it is.

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Actually wasn't much of a charter.

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And Gold will only beach on the far side of the island for picnic lunch and for swimming.

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And as we were heading toward this beach here, the man who was operating the

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there are believed to be more than 500 islands and cays along the Barrier Reef

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that had never seen the footprint of any Robinson Crusoe.

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It's a very beautiful section of the earth and a very inexpensive one to visit.

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Wild goats, as we mentioned a moment ago, are found here in considerable numbers.

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And as we come to the southernmost end of Brampton,

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we see that there are some stiff tides upon occasion,

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and you have to gauge the time when you will cross from one side of the island to the other.

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Returning to Brampton just before sunset, we go out onto the Barrier Reef for fossicking,

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and that's the word that they give when you're going out after coral.

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Now ladies and gentlemen, up until very recent years it was believed that coral was a plant.

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It is not a plant. It is an animal, and is a cousin of the jellyfish.

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Coral, the aggregation of limey skeletons of untold numbers of tiny sea animals, take a multitude of forms.

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They are found in all waters. Even as far north as the fjords of Norway.

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But the reef-building type only thrives in tropical shallows.

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During the daytime, the corals will retire to their stone houses.

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But at night, or with the rising tide, they will stretch out tentacles

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to poison and bring plankton to their mouths, which they feed upon.

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A two-hour journey from Brampton Island back to Mackay,

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and then in our plane to the far north, in Northern Queensland, to Cairns.

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At Cairns we will take a little boat, 16 miles to Green Island.

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And Green Island was discovered by Captain Cook in 1770.

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And more tourists have visited it than any other island or cay on the Barrier Reef.

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Each morning at 9:30 a boat heads for Green Island, getting there at 11,

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and leaving the island returning to Cairns at three in the afternoon.

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A magnificent sandy beach, and here you can get a

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homes for day, all for $3 per day, inclusive.

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Now, let's go out onto the Barrier Reef and view the Barrier Reef as it's viewed by the tourists through the glass-bottomed boat.

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Well, as you've seen so far, little Austria isn't lacking for a big heart.

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Filled with scenic splendored festivals, happy people and a happy way of life.

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It's a country where you can find almost anything you're looking for.

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For instance, haven't we all, at one time or another, dreamed of living in a romantic old castle as in days of yore?

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Well, in Austria it's possible.

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And now that the jet age is here, we can get back into the past very fast.

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Or this evening, even faster than that, by just turning off the lights.

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Perched high up on this rocky cliff is the Castle Rabenstein, where your dream of living in a castle can come true.

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In order to get to the castle, we drove up this winding road through the forest.

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And we both felt very excited as we approached the castle gates.

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And when they swung back, they did seem to be opening up into the past.

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Once inside you feel as though the clock has not only stopped, but this one wonderful moment that actually has turned back years, even centuries.

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All the peace of the world seem locked within this old courtyard, heavy with the scent of flowers and the gentle sound of the fountain.

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Our bags were carried in, and you know already I was beginning to feel sort of like a fairytale princess.

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Up in my room I threw back the shutters and scanned the countryside for an approaching knight in shining armor.

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But all I saw was the river rushing by, far below.

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Here the castle-owners, Baron Reininghaus and his wife, are entertaining friends in the patio.

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They told us that the castle was built in the 12th century by the Knights of Raubenstein.

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There are only a few beautifully furnished rooms for guests, so it's never really crowded.

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You dine by candlelight and, afterwards, around a roaring fire, the Baron tells about the ghost who haunts the Hall of Knights.

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Up in the Great Hall there are stained-glass windows, family portraits, and according to the baron, the one suit of armor that houses the lonely ghost—

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—who on the first of every month comes back and stands wistfully by his chair.

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And here he is! At least, that's what they told us.

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Life goes on inside the castle walls much as it did back in medieval days.

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Here the hay is being brought in for the animals who live in part of the castle, too.

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And they especially delighted in telling us, who live in a world of frozen foods, how the vegetables they serve are just one hour out of the garden.

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Before leaving we had lunch up on the castle terrace with Baron Reininghaus and his wife.

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It's built right on top of the old castle walls.

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The castle gates closed on this world of make-believe. But, it's nice to know that here we can step back into the past in this jet age.

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When autumn comes, it's time for the harvesting of the grapes. And some of Austria's richest vineyards lie here in the eastern province of Burgenland, which was a part of Hungary right until 1920.

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The vineyards stretch right to the now foreboding borders of Hungary.

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That's the land you can see in the distance beyond the trees.

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Burgenland is least known by the tourists. It's so different from the rest of Austria, with it's flat terrain and Hungarian-type people that you almost feel as though you're in another country.

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With so much traffic out here, I guess this harvester felt it was necessary to ease the congestion.

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This families vineyard is located between the villages of Mirvish and Rust, which for years have produced some of Austria's finest wine.

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In fact, the excellent quality of this wine played an interesting role in history.

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Back in the 17th century, this territory was controlled by the Esterhazy overlords.

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The people wanted to be free of their jurisdiction. So, presented their rulers with 800 barrels of their choicest wines.

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The Esterhazy's liked the wines so much, they did grant the people their freedom. And still today the village of Rust is called a free city, having special governmental privileges.

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In the village of Mirvish, located right on the Hungarian border, the people can be seen putting the grapes away in their basements.

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Right from here we can see the forbidding watch towers with their armed guards.

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We were warned though not to try to photograph them, as it might be very dangerous. But, the people don't think about them now, with all the work at hand.

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Soon this man's grapes will be the rich muscatel that Mirvish is so famous for.

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When the harvesting's over, the people feel like celebrating, and wine festivals breakout all over the village country.

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A few miles east of Vienna is the famed Abbey Town of Klosterneuberg lying at the foot of the vine-covered hills.

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And it's here where one of Austria's most popular wine-fests takes place.

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Group after group of these young men carried bowls heavily laden with artistically arranged grapes.

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Before the festivities can really get underway, first these grapes must be taken into the church and be blessed.

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The whole town's one big jolly carnival, with gayly decorated booths filled with products from the vineyards.

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The supreme order of the day is to dance, have a good time, forget all your troubles, and last but not least, drink the new wine.

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And here in the park there's a big barrel, that most generously pours forth this year's wine free, to everyone who wants to sample it. And it looks like just about everyone does.

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The king of the fest and his court start the parade. Its motif stressing wine and its use.

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One autumn, many years ago, the people here felt that their wine was undrinkable, and began to pour it out into the streets. When the emperor heard about this, he disapproved of the wine going to waste, and told the people to send it to the church builders in Vienna, to mix the cement with. So, some of Austria's leading churches have the distinction of being built with wine.

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Meanwhile, back in the park, the bottomless barrel is still the most popular attraction. Well, this ought to give his photographs an interesting slant.

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You can't say they don't have a good time here.

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So it goes all day long, but in Austria the festivals aren't just for the people! Even the animals have their celebrations. High up in the mountain pastures, the cows spend the summer months grazing, while their owners down in the valleys below farm their lands and get the food in the barns before the frost comes. When that's done, it's time for the cows to return home, and that's when their festival begins.

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Their bells and headdresses are laid out for them and strange as it seems they know they're going home and come happily to be groomed and beautified for the big event. Here the cows take their turn as the herdsman starts the grooming.

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This shaggy mountain goat, indigenous to Austria, come down from the Alps to investigate. All this unusual activity must have aroused his curiosity, so he goes in for a closer look. What you might call a goat's eye view. I wonder what the mountain goat really thinks about all this.

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And now we know, what contentment. [[?]] is in order, the cows now come to get dressed. First is a huge bell weighing over 40 pounds. That's some necklace. And no costumes complete without a smart hat. These festive headdresses with religious pictures surrounded by colorful paper flowers are painstakingly made by the farmer's wife.

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The lead cow is now ready and really proud to be wearing the largest bell. But this one with only a small bell seems to have an envious glib in her eye, and with girls there could be trouble. [laughter]

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The two cows are now in a jealous rage. Looks to me like they're trying to ruin each other's bonnets.

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All this excitement has shocked the little calf, while the old goat laughs on. [laughter]

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At the end of September, all kinds of cows with all kinds of headdresses are seen coming down from the mountains. Here you can see how different these headdresses are from the previous ones. They look like little multicolored Christmas trees bobbing along the country road.

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The cows start their long trip at dawn and all day long wind their way down through the beautiful countryside with their melodious bells ringing out. Always they patiently follow the lead cow. It's a big day, not only for the cows, but also their owners. The larger and brighter the decorations, the more it means it's been a good summer with lots of rich milk, some new little calves, and no mishaps.

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At last they've reached the valley and are now going through the billied streets of Haufgarten and the Tyrol.

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Here you can see the little calves, heads bedeck with garlands of flowers. The townspeople come out too to welcome the tired but colorful herd on the last lap of their journey.

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Passing this tiny roadside chapel its just a little way further now until they turn into their own familiar pastures. And here they are, home at last.

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Uh oh, here are two that still have energy to be jealous, I guess. But the lead cow's placid, satisfied to have led the others home safely for the winter.

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Autumn's a wonderful time of the year in Austria, but winter is best of all, and Salzburg under a mantle of white snow is one of the worlds most beautiful cities. [[Music from 00:26:04 to 00:26:34]]

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One winter day we stop at this little art gallery that was built right into part of the old city walls. A piece of what looked like ancient art attracted our attention, so we went in to inquire about it.

00:26:47.000 --> 00:27:05.000
The proprietor told us that is wasn't ancient at all, but actually had been done recently by an artist living there in Salzburg, Kai Chrisnitsky [[Guess]]. He told us that during the summer, one could usually find Kai all around town busily sketching and under summer skies, there he was.

00:27:05.000 --> 00:27:26.000
Kai was originally from Czechoslovakia, is a very talented artist who works in many mediums. He first moved to Salzburg in 1945, because he said he feels he has more freedom of expression. And two, of all the the cities in Europe he feels that Salzburg with its rich beauty has a great deal to offer the creating artist.

00:27:26.000 --> 00:27:37.390
Much of Salzburg is actually very Italian in design with its spacious squares, ornate fountains, and church domes as you can see here. In fact its often been called the Rome of the north.

00:27:43.000 --> 00:27:58.000
Here Kai stops at the old horse-watering pond to feed the pigeons. As many as 20 horses used to bathe in here all at once. It was built by one of the ruling archbishops for his favorite horses.

00:27:58.000 --> 00:28:11.000
Salzburg's natural setting is incomparable. It was founded around the year 700, and was the seat of the most powerful archbishops north of Rome.

00:28:11.000 --> 00:28:28.000
The high point of the city is crowned by their dramatic castle-fortress. It was the rich taste of these art-loving churchmen that brought about the architectural beauty of the city.

00:28:28.000 --> 00:28:43.000
Kai puts away his sketchpad when the time for famous Salzburg festival comes. Now thousands descend on the city from all corners of the world to attend the world's most famous music festival. It takes place from the last week of July through August.

00:28:43.000 --> 00:29:03.000
The streets and squares are teeming with people who have come to see and hear the renowned artists of the world perform in the concert halls and theaters throughout the city. Another tourist attraction is this old narrow street where the shops have elaborate iron signs indicating the business of the owners, such as the shoe-maker, the glass-maker.

00:29:03.000 --> 00:29:13.000
A beer house with a crown on top meaning they serve the king of beers. The tailor, you see the scissors over on the left?

00:29:13.000 --> 00:29:20.000
The key-maker, and a restaurant with the cooking utensils in the basket.

00:29:20.000 --> 00:29:39.000
When the festival's over, Salzburg settles down again and Kai gets back to his sketching. This graceful little flying horse, Pegasus, has probably been the subject matter of many an artist, as it stood in the Mirabell Gardens over 300 years now.

00:29:39.000 --> 00:29:47.000
The Mirabell Palace and Gardens were built by another of the Archbishops.

00:29:47.000 --> 00:30:05.450
Now from a good vantage point, Kai starts a sketch of the Castle-Fortress. It was founded in the year 1077 and remained the unconquered stronghold of the Archbishops down through the centuries. And Salzburg was the seed of the church; it's interesting to know that it didn't become an integral part of Austria until 1816.

00:30:11.000 --> 00:30:30.000
The old courthouse down at the end of the street is just around the corner from the house where the famous composer Mozart was born, and all over Salzburg one finds the name of Mozart. The Mozartplatz, or square, and has his statue in it, always with a wreath of fresh flowers laid at his feet every day.

00:30:30.000 --> 00:30:39.000
Just off the Mozartplatz in a small back courtyard is this lovely little Baroque chapel where he used to go as a boy.

00:30:39.000 --> 00:30:44.000
In practically every corner of the city an artist can find inspiration for his talents.

00:30:44.000 --> 00:31:02.000
Aside from being a painter and a sculptor, Kai is an architect, a designer of stage sets for the Salzburg Festival, and movie sets in Munich. Also, he's had an exhibition of his works in Washington, DC.

00:31:02.000 --> 00:31:23.000
A little outside of the city are the Hellbrunn palace and gardens built by still another of the Archbishops, and this one with a most unusual sense of humor. His innocent guests dining at this table were in for quite a shock!

00:31:23.000 --> 00:31:40.000
And his sense of humor just didn't stop here, either. Inside certain palace rooms, water suddenly sprays out at you from the ceilings and walls like a shower as these sightseers are finding out.

00:31:40.000 --> 00:31:44.000
There's one who came prepared with a rain hat.

00:31:44.000 --> 00:31:50.000
This type fun goes on until the snow falls again.

00:31:50.000 --> 00:31:59.000
Now the statues in the Mirabell gardens that we saw during the summer seem quite alone under the gentle snowfall.

00:31:59.000 --> 00:32:12.770
This time of year not many tourists come to Salzburg, but these seagulls do. And the people love to tell about how for the last 20 years without fail these birds have come all the way from the North Sea to spend the winter here.

00:32:19.000 --> 00:32:33.000
Sometimes in the winter, Kai does some some sketching, especially if he has certain commitments that he wants to gather material and ideas for. Behind him here up on the hill is the old Capuchin Monastary and Church, another familiar landmark in the city.

00:32:33.000 --> 00:32:35.000

00:32:35.000 --> 00:32:47.000
He says he actually prefers Salzburg in the wintertime, because it's so quiet and deserted. That's that same beautiful baroque fountain that we saw during the summer. Now it's all boarded up to protect it from the snow and ice.

00:32:47.000 --> 00:32:49.000

00:32:49.000 --> 00:33:07.000
Kai does many murals in the public buildings, schools and hotels around town. And here's he's having coffee with friends under one of his murals in the Pitter Hotel. Although it only took him about three days to put the actual mural on the wall, he spent the summer - as we saw - gathering his material for it.

00:33:07.000 --> 00:33:10.000

00:33:10.000 --> 00:33:25.000
It's not all just sketching and painting for an artist, the time comes when he must sell his works, too. And here's he's doing just that! Going in to the same little art gallery built into part of the old city wall.

00:33:25.000 --> 00:33:30.000

00:33:30.000 --> 00:33:35.000
And this is where our story of Salzburg began, and where it ends.

00:33:35.000 --> 00:33:39.000

00:33:39.000 --> 00:33:43.000
The village of Lech reflects the beauty and wonder of winter when it envelops the country.

00:33:43.000 --> 00:33:47.000

00:33:47.000 --> 00:34:05.000
Here the snow plow is clearing the main street after a heavy night of snow. Lech is located in the western or [[or Vorarlberg]] section of the country. Now the people don their skis to go to market, do their errands, or for women, even to get their hair done. And this fairy tale house is actually the town beauty parlor.

00:34:05.000 --> 00:34:10.000

00:34:10.000 --> 00:34:19.300
You know you'd expect the cold weather to stop the festivals, but not with the light-hearted Austrians. This just gives them an excuse to have winter festivals!

00:34:22.000 --> 00:34:29.000
This unusual one, called Fasching, is taking place in the picturesque village of Bad Aussee in the province of Styria.

00:34:29.000 --> 00:34:32.000

00:34:32.000 --> 00:34:47.000
And these men, wearing what look like baby bonnets and nightshirts, represent the white, cold winter. They try to be as ugly and noisy as possible, banging on pots and pans and drums, and blowing on horns all day long.

00:34:47.000 --> 00:34:49.000

00:34:49.000 --> 00:35:19.000
In contrast to the stark, ugly winter is spring, bright, gay and colorful. These fabulous costumes are only found in this section of the country. They're called flinserls which in the local dialect means sequins. All the designs and work are done by hand, and you can imagine how many long winter nights it must take to sew on all of these sequins. Also, how much strength it must take to wear one of these costumes for any length of time, as they weigh over 30 pounds.

00:35:19.000 --> 00:35:21.000

00:35:21.000 --> 00:35:26.000
The flinserls go about the town, much to the joy of the children, pouring out nuts.

00:35:26.000 --> 00:35:30.000

00:35:30.000 --> 00:35:36.000
This is symbolic of spring, the time of the year when the earth starts pouring forth its fruits and newness of life.

00:35:36.000 --> 00:35:41.000

00:35:41.000 --> 00:35:45.000
This beautiful drum means it's time for the parade to start.

00:35:45.000 --> 00:35:49.000

00:35:49.000 --> 00:35:57.000
The band is very proud of it's Napoleonic costumes and fake mustaches, a leftover from when Napoleon's armies were in Austria.

00:35:57.000 --> 00:36:01.000

00:36:01.000 --> 00:36:09.000
The first Fashing took place in Bad Aussee over 200 years ago, and still there are few of the sequined costumes left that date from that far back.

00:36:09.000 --> 00:36:13.000

00:36:13.000 --> 00:36:27.190
This large group of glittering flinserls climaxes the festival. They carry their bags filled with nuts to give away for the last time. That is, until next winter, when the whole thing will start all over again.

00:36:33.000 --> 00:36:41.000
The in-valley stretches as far the eye can see, and down in the heart of the valley lies Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol.

00:36:41.000 --> 00:36:48.000
Innsbruck is surrounded on both sides by towering mountains which in turn has made at a skiers paradise.

00:36:48.000 --> 00:36:56.000
The skiers have the advantage of being able to enjoy all that the city has to offer, plus pursuing their favorite winter sport.

00:36:56.000 --> 00:37:00.000
There aren't many cities in the world that can boast such a combination.

00:37:00.000 --> 00:37:01.000

00:37:01.000 --> 00:37:05.000
I wouldn't wanna be learning there at the very edge. [[Laughter]]

00:37:05.000 --> 00:37:07.000

00:37:07.000 --> 00:37:12.000
Classes are held up here every morning seven thousand feet above the city.

00:37:12.000 --> 00:37:16.000

00:37:16.000 --> 00:37:22.000
Meanwhile, down below, the main street of Innsbruck is bustling with its daily routine.

00:37:22.000 --> 00:37:28.000
You know you'd expect to see a lot of old-fashioned show winter [[rolling]] in town this time of year.

00:37:28.000 --> 00:37:31.000
But for the past years, there's been considerable lack of it.

00:37:31.000 --> 00:37:39.000
It seems there's a strange warm wind, called the foehn that sweeps up from the southern valleys and quickly melts any snow.

00:37:39.000 --> 00:37:46.000
Also the people believe that this foehn is responsible for many ills of body, and disposition.

00:37:46.000 --> 00:37:54.000
For instance, if a husband is unduly unkind to his wife, they say he was suffering from the foehn and really not to blame.

00:37:54.000 --> 00:37:56.000
How's that for an excuse?

00:37:56.000 --> 00:37:57.000

00:37:57.000 --> 00:38:07.000
This is the oldest part of Innsbruck, dating back to the 1200's. The time-worn arcades, so characteristic of then, are still busy with their shops today.

00:38:07.000 --> 00:38:11.000

00:38:11.000 --> 00:38:16.000
Also, here is the world-famous Goldenes Dachl, meaning 'Golden Roof'.

00:38:16.000 --> 00:38:26.000
This balcony was built in 1500 by Maximilian the First, so that he and his court could watch the strolling players down in the square below.

00:38:26.000 --> 00:38:32.000
It gets it's name from this gilded roof, which is made from thousands of small copper plates.

00:38:32.000 --> 00:38:36.480
When it was first built, the roof covering alone cost over $70,000.

00:38:40.000 --> 00:38:48.000
This is the Hofburg of Innsbruck, the Tyrolean palace of the once ruling Habsburg family.

00:38:48.000 --> 00:38:56.000
At noon, the rush to the slopes begins. As Innsbruck is one of the few cities in the world where the people can actually ski on their lunch hour.

00:38:56.000 --> 00:39:02.000
Even the streetcar seems to be in a hurry.

00:39:02.000 --> 00:39:07.000
In order to get to the mountains above the city, the first step is this red funicular.

00:39:07.000 --> 00:39:12.000
Most of the beginners go over to the mountains on the other side that we saw before.

00:39:12.000 --> 00:39:19.000
But the advanced skiers all go up here, where the slopes are a real challenge.

00:39:19.000 --> 00:39:26.000
A quick transfer is made from the funicular to this cable car, that swings you up to the snowy top.

00:39:26.000 --> 00:39:32.000

00:39:32.000 --> 00:39:39.000
Skimming over the trees, you can look down and see the skiers returning back to town for their afternoon's work.

00:39:39.000 --> 00:39:45.000

00:39:45.000 --> 00:39:52.000
It's interesting to note that on these surrounding slopes above Innsbruck, the Winter Olympics of 1964 will be held.

00:39:52.000 --> 00:39:58.000

00:39:58.000 --> 00:40:04.000
Well, there's about as much activity up here as down below, or inactivity.

00:40:04.000 --> 00:40:14.000
And it always amazes me how no one's ever perturbed by their proximity to the edge, including the traditional St. Bernard.

00:40:14.000 --> 00:40:23.000
Now for the really skilled and daring skier there's still a final height to be descended from, the very top.

00:40:23.000 --> 00:40:26.000
And here's the parting reminder for them.

00:40:26.000 --> 00:40:33.000
Now looking down from the final peak, you can see the little cable car bringing up the intrepid skiers.

00:40:33.000 --> 00:40:38.000
Shouldering their skis, they walk the rest of the way to the summit that's marked by the cross.

00:40:38.000 --> 00:40:43.000
It's 7,500 feet back down to Innsbruck.

00:40:43.000 --> 00:40:45.140
I hope they get back to work on time.

00:40:52.000 --> 00:40:59.000
Just 16 miles west of Innsbruck in the village of Telfs, the big event of the day, cold or not, is the harness racing.

00:40:59.000 --> 00:41:07.000
During the summer months, the people, along with their horses, are busy with the farming, as this is a typical agricultural community.

00:41:07.000 --> 00:41:12.000
But now that the snow has arrived, the horses become one of the main sources in entertainment.

00:41:12.000 --> 00:41:21.000
The band, groups of horses, sleighs and excited people are all parading into the open field, which is located just at the edge of town;

00:41:21.000 --> 00:41:24.000
and for this event, has become the racetrack.

00:41:24.000 --> 00:41:29.000

00:41:29.000 --> 00:41:38.000
Even though the wind is cold and the clouds hold the threat of more snow, still the atmosphere is warm with the gay spirit of the people.

00:41:38.000 --> 00:41:43.000

00:41:43.000 --> 00:41:48.000
The first race is off, with a breed of horse called the Haflinger.

00:41:48.000 --> 00:41:52.000
They're originally from the south of Austria, which has now become a part of Italy.

00:41:52.000 --> 00:41:59.000
They're a favorite of the farmers because of their sturdy little bodies, and unusual surefootedness in the mountains and on ice and snow.

00:41:59.000 --> 00:42:04.000
All the horses are local except for the trotters, which are brought in from neighboring towns.

00:42:04.000 --> 00:42:09.000
And the favorite of the day is White Nose Shifru and his driver Klaus from Kitzbühel.

00:42:09.000 --> 00:42:12.000

00:42:12.000 --> 00:42:18.000
The starter calls the race. And here you can see Shifru coming up on the outside.

00:42:18.000 --> 00:42:23.000
Being a steady winner, he is given the handicap of starting behind the others.

00:42:23.000 --> 00:42:28.000
But on the last time around, Klaus is up in his seat, urging and driving him ahead.

00:42:28.000 --> 00:42:37.000
Now he's pulled away from the pack, and Klaus brings him in first, and also brings home the prize, the Telfs pennant.

00:42:37.000 --> 00:42:38.000

00:42:38.000 --> 00:42:44.000
Home for Shifru is the famous Tyrolean town of Kitzbühel, lying at the foot of the towering mountains.

00:42:44.000 --> 00:42:56.000
Shifru has the distinction of actually living in one of the town's fashionable hotels, the Tiefenbrunner, a 400 year old inn located on the main street of town.

00:42:56.000 --> 00:43:03.000
As Kitzbühel was an important trading center back in the 15th and 16th centuries, there were stables in most of the houses.

00:43:03.000 --> 00:43:08.000
And the Tiefenbrunner stable is still right off the charming Tyrolean lobby.

00:43:08.000 --> 00:43:14.100
So seeing Shifru strolling past the town shops on his way out to train is a common sight.

00:43:18.000 --> 00:43:21.000

00:43:21.000 --> 00:43:30.000
Aside from our horse, Kitzbühel is also renowned as one of the leading ski centers of the world where many international ski competitions are held.

00:43:30.000 --> 00:43:35.000
The little schoolhouse bell announces that it's time for the daily classes to begin.

00:43:35.000 --> 00:43:44.000
There are over 30 different classes and pupils are graded according to their ability: Beginners, Intermediate, and Advanced.

00:43:44.000 --> 00:43:48.000
There are even classes for the youngest members of the ski set.

00:43:48.000 --> 00:43:51.000

00:43:51.000 --> 00:43:57.000
They really start early over here. This little girl is only 3 years old.

00:43:57.000 --> 00:44:00.000

00:44:00.000 --> 00:44:04.000
Soon she was up trying it again.

00:44:04.000 --> 00:44:08.000
There are 12 different cable ways, ski and chairlifts.

00:44:08.000 --> 00:44:19.000
These ingenious methods of avoiding climbing a mountain before sliding down it carry, tow, or pull the pupils up to their waiting instructors, the famed Red Devils.

00:44:19.000 --> 00:44:24.000
Ski enthusiasts from all corners of the globe come to Kitzbühel for their skilled instruction.

00:44:24.000 --> 00:44:33.000
The symbol on their sleeve is also that of Kitzbühel, Kitz meaning "chamois" and bühel meaning "hill," in the local Tyrolean dialect.

00:44:33.000 --> 00:44:39.000
You know we're all inclined to think that falling is mainly for beginners, but watch carefully now on the back row.

00:44:39.000 --> 00:44:43.000
You'll see that even an expert can do it.

00:44:43.000 --> 00:44:49.000
There he goes. But unlike a beginner, he's up in a hurry.

00:44:49.000 --> 00:44:54.000
There are 50 different runs, including the gentle nursery slopes.

00:44:54.000 --> 00:44:59.000
Lisa was told that this was one of those gentle nursery slopes.

00:44:59.000 --> 00:45:01.000

00:45:01.000 --> 00:45:08.000
But being on skis for the first time, it seemed more like a high mountain to her.

00:45:08.000 --> 00:45:14.000

00:45:14.000 --> 00:45:21.000
[[Increasing Laughter]]

00:45:21.000 --> 00:45:28.000
I shakily did a little better, but I doubt if either one of us would ever win any prizes for our skiing.

00:45:28.000 --> 00:45:30.630
I don't think you're suppose to put one ski on top of the other.

00:45:42.000 --> 00:45:48.000
Tomorrow, one of the leading races of the season is to take place, so Shifru was working out for it.

00:45:48.000 --> 00:45:52.000
He started running when he was three years old and now he's twelve and still a champion.

00:45:52.000 --> 00:45:57.000
In this time he's won over forty-eight thousand dollars for his proud owners.

00:45:57.000 --> 00:46:00.000
Klaus is a farmer's son whose always loved horses.

00:46:00.000 --> 00:46:06.000
He's been with Shifru for now for over six years and lives to race and win.

00:46:06.000 --> 00:46:10.000

00:46:10.000 --> 00:46:15.000
Praise for a good days work and back home to be in the hotel to dream of winning more races.

00:46:15.000 --> 00:46:17.000

00:46:17.000 --> 00:46:21.000
When the moon comes up so do the lights of the famed cafe, Praxmairs.

00:46:21.000 --> 00:46:29.000
For years Herr Praxmair and his group have been entertaining Kitzbühel and its guests, many of whom are royalty and well known social figures.

00:46:29.000 --> 00:46:33.000
They recently started annual tours in the United States.

00:46:33.000 --> 00:47:06.000

00:47:06.000 --> 00:47:13.000
After the show the audience joins in for a Tyrolean twirl with a Tyrolean girl and fun is had by all.

00:47:13.000 --> 00:47:17.000

00:47:17.000 --> 00:47:22.000
The day of the big race at Zell am See arrives clear and cold.

00:47:22.000 --> 00:47:28.000
Zell Am See in the province of Salzburg is dramatically located on an alpine lake called the Zeller See.

00:47:28.000 --> 00:47:33.000
People have come from all sections of Austria wearing their regional dress.

00:47:33.000 --> 00:47:36.000
The races are being held right on the frozen lake.

00:47:36.000 --> 00:47:41.000
It's two-and-a-quarter miles long and two hundred and twenty-five feet deep.

00:47:41.000 --> 00:47:46.650
We trusted in the elements that the whole two hundred and twenty-five feet were solidly frozen.

00:47:51.000 --> 00:48:13.000
These are the track clowns that put on little skits between the races. Skijoring is the preliminary attraction before the main trotting events. Fearless skiers aplomb at racing speed right on the heels of the horses. It takes great skill and courage to maintain the proper balance in this sport.

00:48:13.000 --> 00:48:27.000
The judge studies his list of entries as the big race is about to begin. An they're off. Again the leading trotters are handicapped, so Shifra's starting position was 300 feet back.

00:48:27.000 --> 00:48:43.000
But here he comes now up on the left with Klaus in his same lucky blue sweater. There are over 30 different horses in this race that have come from all parts of Austria. Some of the leading trotters are here so it's a real challenge for Shifra.

00:48:43.000 --> 00:48:51.000
The clowns even during the race take every opportunity to amuse the spectators.

00:48:51.000 --> 00:49:02.000
You know the horses sense they're running on the frozen lake. There is an eerie, hollow thud as their hooves beat against the ice that trembles under foot. It makes the horses nervous.

00:49:02.000 --> 00:49:08.000
In fact, it made us nervous.

00:49:08.000 --> 00:49:20.000
Now keep your eye on Shifra, he's pushing up into third position as the tense race nears its end.

00:49:20.000 --> 00:49:38.000
Feel the finish line and shifra on the far left goes over to win by a nose. The judge checks Shifra as champion of the day. As he and Klaus return past the stands for the praise and applause of the crowd.

00:49:38.000 --> 00:49:46.000
Well it looks like he bet on Shifra.

00:49:46.000 --> 00:49:55.660
This typical young couple seem pleased over the results of the race too. The affairs and events of the day are discussed and then the people begin to wind their way home.

00:50:05.000 --> 00:50:10.000
This young man told us he, too, is going home with more shillings than he came with.

00:50:10.000 --> 00:50:18.000
So, the day was a success. Our horse won and the ice did hold up.

00:50:18.000 --> 00:50:29.000
Dawn breaks across the wintry skies, and white magic is everywhere, and so is black magic.

00:50:29.000 --> 00:50:35.000
During mid-winter, devils, demons, witches and monsters come to life in many of the small communities.

00:50:35.000 --> 00:50:42.000
These creatures of the phantom world represent the evil spirits of winter and must be driven out.

00:50:42.000 --> 00:50:50.000
In ancient times the superstitious people thought that the hardships of the long, cold winter could be expelled by this weird masquerading.

00:50:50.000 --> 00:50:59.000
And still today, these rites of routing out the evil spirits of winter take place.

00:50:59.000 --> 00:51:06.000
Well these whispering devils must be plotting on how to avoid being driven out.

00:51:06.000 --> 00:51:14.000
But the Schellerlaufen, with its noisy bells and unusual masks is a way of expelling the demons of the cold winter.

00:51:14.000 --> 00:51:17.000
There are three leading characters in the carnival:

00:51:17.000 --> 00:51:21.000
The Scheller with his big bell represents winter.

00:51:21.000 --> 00:51:24.000
The Roller wearing a belt of small bells is spring.

00:51:24.000 --> 00:51:27.000
And the Carer with his broom, who sweeps away the winter.

00:51:27.000 --> 00:51:33.000
There are many such threesomes as this found throughout the festival.

00:51:33.000 --> 00:51:38.000

00:51:38.000 --> 00:51:46.000
Every three years, in the Tyrolean village of Nassereith, the people swirl out into the town square to begin their noisy purge on winter.

00:51:46.000 --> 00:51:52.000
This ritual of pre-Christian origin, was derived from heathen customs and legends.

00:51:52.000 --> 00:52:07.000
In ancient times it was a belief that nature could be shocked into action by lots of noise, of which there's plenty here, as you can well see with bells this size.

00:52:07.000 --> 00:52:14.440
The large sturdy-looking women in there carrying the colored balls are called "Sackner," and they wildly swing them around to keep the way clear.

00:52:18.000 --> 00:52:25.000
The man in the center is cracking his whip to drive away the evil spirits, open up the earth, and let the spirit of spring out.

00:52:25.000 --> 00:52:32.000
Their steady dance-like steps of jumping up and down is also to awaken spring, asleep beneath the frozen ground.

00:52:32.000 --> 00:52:36.000

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Masks are the main attraction. Made of wood, hand-carved, they're handed down in Tyrolean families for generations.

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Well I don't know about scaring the cold away, but this winter witch should scare something away!

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These beautiful girls are really men, as no women take part in the proceedings at all.

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Here they're clearing the way for the coming procession.

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All the groups and floats in the procession represent something from the whimsical world of fantasy.

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These are gypsy witches.

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And these are good goblins from the magic wood.

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The country people believe that in the surrounding mountains, this friendly giant lives and protects them from evil.

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But how this east Indian folk figures in, I just don't know.

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Complete with elephant orchestra and even dancing girls -

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I mean dancing men!

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The curious carnival winds its way down and around the village streets most of the afternoon.

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But even after the sun had set, there were tireless groups of shouters and rollers, still in motion with their bells still ringing out against the winter demons.

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And sure enough, and just outside town this strange apparition was seen leaving!

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He was undoubtedly one of the winter demons, the people had succeeded in frightening away.

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And we too must leave.

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But the memory of Austria will remain forever sparkling in our hearts.

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