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Rochest [[line]] [[two columns]] [[start column]] The Russo-American Telegraph -- Report of Col. Bulkley. [[line]] The Secretary of the Western Union Telegraph Company has received from San Francisco the following report of Col. Bulkley, the Engineer-in-chief of the Russian Telegraph Expedition: SAN FRANCISCO, Dec. 18, 1865. Since my last report, dated at Victoria, our ships have been engaged in transporting material, supplies, and parties for exploration of the country through which our lines will pass on both continents, examining harbors and coast lines, locating cable crossings, and so far as possible, determining the route of these lines. Mr. Conway, in charge of the Frazer's River division, has been delayed in building, owing to late arrival of material, but has finished four hundred and fifty miles of line. I believe that the exploration committed to him, with the establishment of depots and distribution of supplies, have been fully and satisfactorily completed. In a brief message he states that "up to the 57th deg. north latitude there is nothing to prevent building the line." The rendezvous of our vessels at Stika was necessary, in order to distribute supplies, which were in the Clara Bell -- also to divide and dispatch our parties for their destinations; the far advanced summer left no other course, and in order to examine the most Northern points myself, I determined to take the steamer Geo. S. Wright and assist the other vessels by towing so far as possible, at the same time furnishing them orders in regard to future movements, in case we should accidentally be separated or I should designedly leave them. Mr. Kennicott dividing his party, will explore the country between the Kvichpak, in latitude 65 deg. north, and the head of Norton Sound; at the same time push his little steamer up the river until stopped by ice; then with dogs and sledges reach Fort Yukon and penetrate to the southward, forming a junction with the British American explorations. To insure his safety in this last work, I ordered Mr. Conway to establish a depot on Babini Lake, which is done. At St. Michaels we found reliable testimony in regard to Kvichpak and Yukon being the same river and a large navigable stream filled with islands. Sand bars block its passage in many places to all except light draft boats, but this was probably observed in only one of the many passages in which this great river winds through the islands in its course. From evidence since received, it is certain that the most southern mouth of this river has an entrance from the sea, with ten feet of water on the bar; and everything indicates the existence of still better channels through which such a large volume of water must be emptied into Behring Sea. From St. Michaels the Russians go in its most northern mouth with boats drawing four feet. Large quantities of drift wood come down with its current, landing on the shores of Behring Sea and Norton Sound, furnishing the trading post of St. Michaels with their only fuel. This part of Russian America is low and rolling, but in the South are high mountains, spurs of the great coast range that stands like a wall on the whole coast, following the peninsula of Alaska and forming the Aleutien Islands. North of this island chain Behring Sea is filled with alluvian poured into it by the rivers, making it comparatively shallow, while the southern side falls abruptly into the depth of the Pacific Ocean. The harbor of St. Michaels is exposed to the north and unsafe in heavy gales from that quarter. The coast northward is low, rolling, and without timber up to Cape Nome; west of this, precipitous, but not high, which continues to near the entrance of Port Clarence. This fine bay has a good entrance, with ten fathoms of water and mud bottom; opening into its eastern side is Grantley harbor, smaller in extent and completely landlocked, proving a good landing for our cable, and the only practical and safe one on the American side of Behring Straits. The country is of the same general character as that bounding Norton Sound on the east, without timber and covered with a heavy growth of moss, thrown up by the frost in large bunchy masses; below this the earth is thawed about ten inches, and beneath frozen solid. Small stunted bushes, bearing berries like wild currants and whortleberries, are the only approaches to trees in this region. St. Lawrence and Mechigme Bays on the Asiatic coast, proved unsafe for our purpose; shoal water and exposure to south-east gales, driving ice packs in deep masses on the shores, would destroy any cable; both bays were full of old ice, which extended in broken lines ten miles at sea, and through which we worked our way with considerable difficulty. Seniavin Strait offers all the protection necessary, with good bottom, deep water and safe landing in Penkegu Gulf or Abolesher Bay, and from this straight to Grantley Harbor the bottom of Behring Strait is mud, sand and gravel, averaging about thirty fathoms in depth, and distance between proposed landings one hundred and seventy-eight miles. The Siberian side is more mountainous, without timber, and but little moss, except in the valleys. The great masses of syenite that rise in sharp, rough outline at their summits are torn and pushed by the congealing water in every crevice until the avalanche of rock comes thundering down to the valley, and lays a gentle slope against the mountain side, and in this way these mountains are sinking to hills and the masses crumbling to atoms in the intense cold. Valleys wind between them, sometimes partially filled with this debris, but through which we find passage for our land line. The ground is thawed to an average depth of three feet, probably owing to the absence of the thick moss covering of the American side. In Port Providence, or Plover Bay, we found our barque Palmetto, from which vessel we coaled and ordered her direct to San Francisco. On September 26th the Golden Gate arrived from St. Michaels, reporting all of Mr. Kennicott's men, supplies, &c.. landed, and the party in good spirits, about starting up the Kivichpak River. I ordered Capt, Scammon to Petropoculski to communicate with Mr. Abasa, in case we should get frozen in the Anadyr River, as winter seemed fast approaching. Already the lower wills were covered with snow, and ice as closing the upper part of the bay. This is a good harbor, bounded by mountains, with deep water and mud bottom. The coast line west rises in perpendicular cliffs with serrated and ragged outline, and no available harbors east of Cape Spanberz. The harbor that we find directly west of this cape has its entrance between perpendicular cliffs, but at its head a good beach slopes into the water, with low rolling country stretching to the eastward. In the distance north, high, mountain ranges covered with snow show their rugged outline. A sand and mud bottom, with water averaging about thirty fathoms in depth, continues across Anadyr Bay to the mouth of Anadyr River, and there is a good landing in the bay near Cape Observation, well protected from ice. The schooner Milton Badger was here, having landed Mr. McRae and party, who were engaged in preparing for winter. It being too late for boat explorations of the river, they will commence with reindeer as soon as the snow falls in sufficient quantity. Three hundred of these animals were on the ground, belonging to the Indians in that vicinity, with whom arrangements were made for transportation. Mr. McRae will proceed to Anadysk, about three days' journey, and thence towards the head of Guljinsk Gulf, or until communicating with Mr. Abasa, to whom he is ordered to report. With a boat I ascended the river to about thirty miles above Cape Tolstoi and found a fine navigable stream, with low banks, and the country in the distance gently undulating, and without timber. The waters at this point ebb and flow with the tides of Behring Sea; but the indications of freshets on the banks show a rise of about ten feet, which leave considerable driftwood of large size for this northern region. - Some of the logs observed were more than twelve inches in diameter. The Indians report timber above, and represent the [[?]] crooked, with strong currents and rocks some distance up. From Cape St. Barle westward the country is low, rolling, covered with moss, and thawed about two feet in depth. Low scrubby pines and alder, not over three feet in height, grow in sheltered places. On the 13th of October new ice was making so fast that we were obliged to leave the river, and on the following day large [[strikethrough]] els? [[/strikethrough]] were climbing on its edges and lying there above water, curiously watching us. Snow had already covered the ground, and it was probably that Mr. McRea could soon commence his winter explorations. At noon on the 14th, the sun was seventeen degrees above the horizon, and for the first three days of the passage southward ice was continually forming on the ship's sides and decks. The coast from Anadyr river, southward, so far was we were able to examine it in snow squalls, was very mountainous and offering no inducement to look for another cable landing, and one, too, that would increase the distance; besides the interior route via the river will avoid these coast mountains. The proposed cable route across Anadyr Bay is two hundred and nine miles, which can only be avoided by building a land line north, and crossing the Gulf of St. Croix. That coast is a most inhospitable region; from Cape Behring I could see rough snow covered ranges stretching far towards the head of the Bay on the eastern shore, but the western is not so high and broken. We arrived at Petropoulski Oct. 21st, and found the Golden Gate lying in the harbor. Mr. Abasa and one of his party started from this place late in August, moving northward through the peninsula of Kampstchatka, intending to arrive at the head of Gyinski Bay in time for snow travel towards Anadsk or Westward, as his connection with MacRae may decide. Finding the subordinate officials ready and willing to assist, without positive orders from the Governor of Eastern Siberia, at the mouth of Amoor River, he has chosen the proper course to expedite his work, and is pushing forward with commendable energy and a determination to succeed, that astonishes his countrymen. From information received, he reports the head of Gbyinsk Bay a good base for our work in Northern Siberia, with surrounding country well timbered with fir, and the bay clear of ice sooner than Penjinsk Gulf. It is said that high and impassable mountains bound the Okhotsk Sea on the west between Okhotsk and Port Aian, extending far inland, and so precipitous on the coast that even the narrow winter trail cannot be carried along the base. [[line from above strikethrough]] ^[[insertion]] Seals [[/insertion]] [[end column]] [[start column]] The Russian Government, however, proposes to build a postal road along the coast connecting Nikolaevsk and Aian with Obetsk, which does not confirm the previous statement in regard to this country. It is the character of the people from whom Mr. Abasa derived his information to find insurmountable obstacles in comparative trifles. There is an inland route from Okhotsk toward Yakontsh which will avoid the coast mountains and reach the Amoor River a considerable distance above its mouth, and which has advantages, provided we are allowed to connect with the Russian lines at any point we may reach them. Ordering the Golden Gate direct to San Francisco we sailed with steamer on November 1st, intending to cross the Pacific well north in short longitude and go southward through the Straits of Queen Charlotte Archaepelego to Victoria, but after eighteen days trial in violent gales, with ship somewhat damaged, we reluctantly turned our prow southward, and arrived in this port Nov. 29th. Light snow commenced at Petropaulski October 25th, and ice was forming in small inner harbor, but none in the magnificent Bay of Avatcha, which is seldom entirely closed in the main part. The most northern regions through which our lines will pass present no serious obstacles; neither in the construction or successful operations of telegraphs. The sub-marine crossings will have the advantage of even and soft bottom with safe landings and cables not so long as to make their performance doubtful. The land lines firmly planted in t e frozen earth will stand as if morticed in rock; no timber to fall across nor sleets to weight the wires, they will stretch over the frozen desolation unharmed and unmolested; besides, with reindeer and dogs the winter watching will be comparatively easy. The Behring Straits crossed is one hundred and seventy-eight and Anadyr Bay two hundred and nine nautical miles between landings, with water of such depth that icebergs alone could injure cable; these are unknown in Behring's Strait or south of it; the northward currents preventing any drift of deep masses south; even when the surface current is changed by strong north winds, the lower water still moves northward. It has been argued by some that the terrific gales of high latitude opposed inseparable difficulty in keeping up lines; they are not fabulous, yet no more violent than the gales of your temperate zone. The Esquimaux builds his insecure skin-tent on the most exposed place, so that the snow may blow away from it, and there it stands, his shelter and home through all the blasts of the long winter. I have seen no Esquimaux on the Asiatic side inhabiting underground winter houses as of old, the excavations and ruins remain, but the people are gone long since, and the present races occupy the ground with their deer skin habitations. The Indians of the sea coast are misrepresented; we found them friendly, honest and exceedingly hospitable, never manifesting on any occasion, nor about any of our vessels, the least disposition to steal; but they beg, thinking, probably, that the white man, who has so much, can freely give. These people can be made useful with proper management; more so in the future than in the beginning of our work. Game is abundant during the summer, especially water fowl, and the Indians catch considerable quantities of salmon. Reindeer, rabbits, grouse and foxes, (the three last white) see plentiful, also seal and walrusses. Reindeer are used for beasts of burden on the coast, and in the interior of northeastern Siberia, in Russian America, dogs alone; with these animals some of our short inland transportation must be accomplished during the winter, especially that over the thick moss covered region; we intend to use every available means of water transportation, and locate our lines so far as possible to favor the plan. To supply material and stores to parties on both continents during next summer, two more sailing vessels will be necessary and another steamer of greater capacity and power than the Wright, especially if it is decided to lay the cable; beside I believe it will be necessary to send the Wright into the Okhotsk Sea. I propose to build here two small stern-wheel steamboats about forty feet long, of light draft, to [[strikethrough]] two [[/strikethrough]] ^[[insertion]] tow [[/insertion]] barges or small flat-boats up the Kivichpak and Anadyr rivers; these will be always necessary to transport our supplies into the interior. Should the Navy Department give us a steamer that will not sail without steam, and leave us to provide coal, it will be doubtful economy to accept. Steamers for our service should be as I have the Wright, either a sailing vessel or steamer, as circumstances require. This steamer has proved a valuable vessel, both economical and serviceable; with two blades on her propeller she steams well, and performs admirably under sail alone. Since leaving San Francisco her keel has gone through eleven thousand miles of water, and of this she towed some one of our vessels twelve hundred miles at sea. In the furious and incessant gales after leaving Petropouliki, she lost her smoke stack and sails, besides being somewhat damaged in her upper works. The other vessels returned in good condition, but the Milton Badger is so destructive to sails that I recommend her sale, to be replaced with a square-rigged vessel. The Golden Gate's equipment was similar to a vessel in the revenue service, and she has been flag ship of the expedition. The show of power and the nationality that Captain Scammon represented with his flag, was necessary to ensure the respect and kind offices of a people who expect this, especially in an enterprise that interests the world. Our general military organization, too, has had its effect, not only among strangers, savage or civilized, but among the members of the organization. In natural history, the collections have exceeded the expectations of the most sanguine, and do honor to the liberality which has permitted this work. No other duty has been neglected for this object, however, but when recreation was necessary or convenient, this has proved a pleasing and instructive source. Our soundings were made with a new instrument, which brings up a sufficient quantity of any other bottom than rock for satisfactory test, and which, during the progress of our work, has added many interesting specimens from the ocean beds to our collections. The general health of all connected with the expedition has been good. No serious sickness has been reported, no death has occurred, nor any serious casualty befallen any person. The expedition was delayed so late that I was obliged to abandon my plan of exploring the lower Kivicopak and its mouth, and the thorough boat exploration of the Anadyr river, but the winter parties now in the field will accomplish the purpose. All of the vessels have rendered most efficient service and are well adapted to the work -- There has been but few listless moments or idle hands since our prows were turned fairly north; and, with scarcely a single exception, all connected with the enterprise have engaged with interest in the service and zealously endeavored each to emulate the other in the discharge of their duties. The services of Captain Scammon have been of the greatest importance, not only as a thorough seaman, but particularly as an officer of the United States Government, carrying our national flag. The Russians, sensible to the importance of the enterprise, have neglected no opportunity to express the most kindly feeling and liveliest interest in our success--receiving us with unbounded hospitality. The officials have generally sustained us. In regard to the British Columbia Division, I will report immediately after Mr. Conway arrives. I am, most respectfully, Yours, obediently, CHARLES S. BUCKLEY, Engineer-in-Chief
