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Some of the designers claim that times like these call for more abandon than ever to fun, frolic and fantasy.  As an emotional escape hatch, you know.  They are positive we'll all feel cheerier wearing clothes that are "amusing" or exotic or splendidly opulent — tons of glitter, brocade, feathers, fur — fur in broad sable hems to warm a $45 a yd. cut-velvet ball gown, $3,500 retail.  I'd feel cheery in that.
Other designers sound a soberer not.  Not glum.  But realistic.  They say that now's the time to simmer down from several years of exuberant-consumption and fashion kookiness, like the costly clothes that are such "fun" for a minute, after which, heave-ho.  I agree with them.  Especially with the super-talented few, the very few who, like Pauline Trigère, turn out clothes that have to be expensive—but justify the initial cost by staying chic, seductive, elegant, for five years or more.
More guessers, poor devils, are the store buyers.  Especially in the luxury-price group.  They live, or lose the job, on guesses.  Just suppose that rich Mrs. Bingsley-Twitch doesn't go for those three $2,000-up outfits ordered with exactly her lumpy figure and bank account in mind?  The markdowns will be brutal.  Write when you get work, kiddo.

Now it's my turn in this guessing game.  I guess that the most successful fall look won't be prohibitively gorgeous.  Not sombre, either.  (Why be grim?  It's three-ways better to be jolly.)
My optimism stems from a refreshing new trend that is almost too good to be true.  It looks great.  Easy. Understated.  Relaxed.  Self-assured.  Young.  Comfortable.  Casual.  Practical.  Effortless.  Nifty.  Pick your own descriptive tag.  What matters is that you can pick your own price tag.  Because this look is around at absolutely every price level.
It's there in clothes with the labels of 
[[next column]]Trigère, Donald Brooks, Chester Weinberg  (he's hot again this year), Teal Traina and several others who turn it out marvelously at prices you have to expect for their quality of fabric, workmanship, construction.  But the look can be found even at basement prices.
The look is called Separates.  Or sometimes, not as accurately, Sportswear.  Separates says it much better, implying that you can, when cost is a factor, pull the pieces together yourself, using personal style and taste.  These are qualities I admire more than money.  The pieces, three to five for a layered outfit, lend themselves to infinite variety (like Cleopatra, wasn't it?).  They are switchable into many combinations.  You assemble, and reassemble, yourself.  It is fun.  The pieces, I keep saying, come at anybody's price.

As for that chewed-to-death word, New: the pulled together Separates trend, like the return to styles of the 20s, 30s, and now the 40s, is one more revival.  A beauty, too, just right for today.
Separates were a big trend with the young in the 40s — a trend that stayed around (with store sections even named after it) but living a mainly stationwagon, country-club or campus life.
This year, though, once the weather warmed, the separates look reappeared as, of all things, city-chic.  Ladies like Gloria Vanderbilt, never a frump, were photographed along Park or Madison, wearing beautiful little white shirts and flippy skirts held together by broad patent belts.  It looked great, I can tell you.  Young.  Easygoing but altogether.
Warm-weather separates like those showed up in audiences, too, at summer's high-fashion showings.  At one, the art-collecting Ethel Scull wore her white shirt, broad black ascot tie, and patent belt with a definitely separate skirt.  It was white twill with a message printed all over in

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PLAYBILL'S DINING GUIDE
L—Luncheon C—Cocktails D—Dinner S—supper

ACT I 42nd & B'way (16th floor Allied Chem. Tower). Stouffer's newest seems almost 200 years old. Fabulous food. 19th Century English elegance Times Square at your feet. LCD, aft. theatre S to 12 PM. AE DC CB 695-1880.

AFRICAN ROOM—156 W. 44 (at Bway). Jungle decor. Dancing. LD & S. Exciting Afro-Calypso revue nicely. Never a cover charge. Catering (5-175). Sweet 16 Safari Parties. Show Ticket stubs for a free gift. JU 6-7575.

ALBERT FRENCH RESTAURANT—42 E. 11th St. Complete dinner incl. all the sirloin steak, fried shrimp or ham steak you can eat for a fantastic $3.25; incl. SIDEWALK CAFE & Free Guided Village bus tour. Bar L. D. OR 3-3890.

CAFE LUCCA—143 W. 44th St. Pre-theatre-luncheon. Dinners of all Italian Specialties, theatrical rendezvous & Party Room. L. 11:30 A.M.—$1.85 up. D. 3:00 P.M. $285 up. Cl. Sun. Amer Exp., Carte Blanche. JU 2-9400.

THE CATTLEMAN—5 E. 45th St. Come for supper tonight. Dine elegantly and intimately in a bygone wold of gaslight, beaded curtains and velveted victorian parlours. Supper menu after 11pm, fr. $1.85 to $3.85. MO 1-1200.

CHARLES FRENCH RESTAURANT — Av. Americas-10th St. Lush Golden Days of La Belle Epoque live on in Elegant Setting. Grand Presentation D. including French Champagne—$9.50. A la Carte fr. $4. Valet king. GR 7-3300.

CHINA BOWL—142 W. 44th St. (B'way & 6th Ave.) Authentic Cantonese Cusine in the heart of Ties Sq. Luncheon Dinner & After Theatre Featuring combination plates & Family Dinners. Cocktails. JU 2-3358.

82 CLUB—82 E. 4th St. (Bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves). World's most unusual show feating 35 female impersonators. Lavish costumes. Shows 10:30, 12:30, 2:30. 7 nights. Sat. 10, 12, 2:15. Min. (food & liquor). AE, CB. GR 7-0820.

GALLAGHER'S—228 W. 52nd St. N.Y.'s Official Steak House. The rendezvous for theatre folk and sports personalities for over 31 years. Famous for steaks and lobsters. D. Mon-Fri. 5:30-1 AM Sat-Sun 5-12 D.C. & A.E. CI 5-5336.

HO-HO—131 W. 50. CI 6-3256. Dine on fine Cantonese & Mandarin dishes in lovely modern setting L, D & After Theatre. A la carte 11:30 a.m-4 am. Cocktail lounge. Free parking (exc. Sat.) after 6. All Credit Cards.

KASHMIR—108 W. 45th St. Exotic curries of India and Pakistan served daily noon till midnite. Weekday Luncheon $1.25 Complete Pre-Theatre and After-Theatre Dinners moderately priced. Choice wines & beer. CI 7-8785.

L'ETOILE —5th Avenue & 59th St. (PL 1-7025) Magnificent cuisine in a contemporary setting makes this glittering Parisian restaurant a unique rendezvous for notables. L-D-S. noon till 1:00 a.m. Prix fixe dinner from $8.25.

LA BOURGOGNE—123 W 44th St. CHEESE SOUFFLES. A real French bistro; caters to before and after theatre clintele. L. 12-4, $2.50 up. Mon. thru Sat. Dinner 4 P.M. to 1 A.M. $3.95 up. Closed Sunday. JU 2-4230.

LA COMEDIE—2005 B'way (b. 68 and 69 St.) Open 7 Days. Superb French Food. Cocktails-Lunch-Dinner-Supper, Pre/After Theatre Dinner. Near Lincoln Center. Parking Facilities. 799-6768.

LE VERT-GALANT—60 w. 48th St. French cuisine L. $2.85 up. Hot hors d'oeuvres served with cocktails. Complete D $3.50 up from 5 PM to 11 PM. Sat til 1 A.M. Maurice—Chef & Owner. CI Sun. All Credit Cards. JU 2-7989.

LES PYRENEES—251 W. 51st St. Superb French Restaurant, favorite with Theatregoers, Provincial decor. After-Theater Dinner 'til midnight, Cocktail Lounge. Recommences by Holiday Sun. from 4. Luncheon, Dinner. CI 6-0044.

LIVING ROOM—915 2nd Ave. (49) EL 5-2262. Rendezvous of Sammy Davis & pals. Fireplace & couches. C.D.S. Cont. shows fr. 9PM. Erwin C. Watson thru Aug. 4th. Lenny Kent arrives Aug. 5th for 3 weeks. No cover charge.

MYKONOS — 349 W. 46 (W. of 8th) Authentic Greek cuisine and music. Fantastic Decor. Replica of a Mykonos Home. Open Tues-Sun. from 4:30 PM to 4 AM. Cocktails, Dinner, and Supper. 265-1590.

ORANGERIE — Rue 59 et. Av Madison As romantic as a Mediterranean villa Canopied banquettes, beautiful people, beatific food Open 7 days from brunch thru a ver late, aphrodisiac supper. Strolling music. PL 9-2993

PATRICIA MURPHY'S CANDLELIGHT RESTURANTS—49th St. E. of 5th Ave., 38th St. & Mad. Ave., and Westchester, N.Y. Open everyday—L C D —Sun. Brunch 49th St. & 38th St. Personally super. and owned by Patricia Murphy.

RAINBOW ROOM—Up in the start on Manhattan's roof. Superb D. every evening; Sat. and Sun. Brunch from 12 noon. PL 7-9090. RAINBOW GRILL. Flip Wilson thru Aug. 7th. Aug. 9-31 Helen O'Connell.

SUN LUCK RESTAURANTS — GOURMET 157 W. 49 St.  — EAST 75 E. 55 St. — IMPERIAL 935 Lex. Ave. QUEENS 91-16 59 Ave nr Queens Blvd. — SUNNYSIDE 45012 Queens Blvd. — FLUSHING 144-08 Northern Blvd.

TOM JONES—152 E. 55 (3rd & Lex) HA 1-1500 Authentic reproduction of early English pub Lusty atmosphere, good food L & D $1.50-$495. Real dancing to our swinging Trio every night from 8 pm. No cover. No. Min.

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