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[[start page]] [[advertisement]] ciao Sport Ltd. [[image-black and white drawing of a woman wearing a blazer and long skirt]] [[caption-Pedro Baris[[?]]]] Deauville blazer in white trimmed with navy. White trouser-pleated skirt. Both in wool gaberdine. Sizes 4 to 14. Blazer about $110, skirt about $60. With it, a silk crepe de chine shirt, navy tie. About $48. At all Bonwit Teller stores. Designed by the McPartlands for CIAO [[/advertisement]] FRAME-UP Eyewear has become a prime fashion accessory, and the days when you bought one pair of glasses to go with everything and to last for almost-ever are, shall we say, out of sight. The trend is toward multiple purchases, and the average New Yorker myopic now buys two new pair of glasses every year. Of course, that's nothing compared to the $40,000 worth of flashy focals Elton John keeps on hand, but every purchase--no matter how few rhinestones--is tax deductible. "Glasses are like shoes" says Andrew Janedis, president of A.R. Trapp optician. "You own ten pairs of shoes, but you don't wear the same ones every day or for the same occasion." "I believe every woman should have a wardrobe of glasses," sighs Princess Diane Von Furstenberg, one of the many ready-to-wear designers proving that it's not hard to be good looking when it's so hard to see. [[image: photo, head shot of woman in glasses]] Oscar de la Renta was the first major designer to try his hand at eyewear and his second collection (see photo above) debuted this fall. Joining him at your local optician is Gloria Vanderbilt, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Jacques Fath, Pierre Cardin and, you guessed it, Halston. The big colors for '76: wine and rose tints, violet-blues and the honey tones. Diane Von Furstenberg is matching her frames to leaf tones and naming her colors burnt orange, rose moss, tangerine fawn and the like. De la Renta lets you opick between numerous swirl and fade colors--a swirl is marbelized colors that [[end page]] [[start page]] seem to float inside the frame and a fade is a color that moves from clear to light to a dark rich tone of a monochrome, from say, clear light pink to deep rose/wine. Givenchy and Gloria Vanderbilt have both done interesting things with fades in the wine, blue and honey variations. Your springtime lavender has moved into a fall blueberry. Yves Saint Laurent does his blueberry as a mottled effect of lights and darks, while Stuart May of May Optical likes a clear solid electric blue frame. May's frame also comes in other fall tones: rust forest green, brown and lipstick. For the person who is buying one pair of fall frames to go with everything, it's tortoise or amber, says Andy Janedis. Crystal (clear plastic) and flesh (pinkish clear plastic) smack of yesterday's news, but can be revitalized with gradient lenses. The gradient tint, from light to dark, is the latest news, although all pastel colored tints are stylish as long as the tint is coordinated with the frame and wardrobe. Bigger is better when it comes to frames. Although frames are lighter, thinner and shapelier than last summer's and are styled to look big when they may indeed be smaller. Big styled frames now come in all proportions so that people with any size face can find a "big" look that is right for them. While you can toss aside your aviator specs as strictly passé, the modified aviator is perfectly chic--but don't buy any type of aviator with a double bridge if you really want to look au courant. Butterfly styles are as respectable a spectacle as modified aviators, and the classic square is coming back via the European designers. Saint Laurent chooses the square and teams it with a hand-cut swirl temple for a very new look in shape. If it sounds like the great American frame-up to you, do what the Europeans are doing: go frame-less. Or, at least, rimless. While wire rims are very out, wire rim-less are very in and Ben Franklin seems to have gotten the last word in a Bicentennial year. Choose from a pair with a chase of just a nose piece. Of course, what makes these specs so spectacular is the use of the color gradient lens and the thought that you should have a pair to go with every color in your closet. After all, you can't always look at the world through rose colored glasses. -- SUZY KALTER [[advertisement]] GORDON[[symbol: registered trademark]][[symbol: logo, a bird?]] OF PHILADELPHIA At B. ALTMAN & CO., New York, and other fine stores... or write Gordon Sales Associates 1410 Broadway, New York 10018. [[image: drawing, woman in foreground, three people and a butler in the background]] GORDON MAKES THE DIFFERENCE Contemporary classics...Gordon's center-vented hacking blazer in our own Tartan, collared in velveteen that matches the velveteen skirt and vest. Lined Tartan blazer...70% polyester, 30% worsted wool, about $80. The skirt and vest...both in 100% cotton velveteen. The skirt, about $42. The lined vest, about $32. SLIGHTLY HIGHER IN THE WEST
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