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who explicazioned' to us over his shoulder by gestures with his lovely profile always against the sky—  He rattled at a tearing rate among the crowds of people in the narrow steep perfectly smooth paved streets and took it easy with his little nag outside the wall on the soft dirt road.  We had there the huge city wall and towers and gates on the left and the beautiful valleys and castle & convent crowned hills and mountains on the other side.  I did'nt recognize vineyards until I was told what they were as the leaves are all off the vines and you only see rows of small trees - straggly-looking in fields of bare ruddy earth.   The olive trees are very pretty, small and knotty and the leaves which hav'nt fallen yet are thin and a light bluish grey.  There is no grass, hardly, any where.  You simply see plows and earth - And people working in the fields with lovely huge grey oxen with horns I