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50

- looms rather crowded in together 
- cost of a new ATBM 10,000 Rp, ordered from carpenters in the village; often possible to pick up second hand looms nowadays for about 7000 Rp
- most of weavers are young girls; apparently most come from outside the area (Pak Mukhsin's workers come mainly from Bantul, the border of which is only 3 K away).
origins of industry unclear (inherited from ancestors) but prior to 1954 were using back-strap looms & were making lurik, bagos + one other type of weaving.
- although weavers are girls, men may do dying, threading, bobbinwinding, warping & marketing of finished products

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tukang sekir - warper
tukang celup - dyer
tukang jontro - bobbinwinder
tukang suri - threader

youngest weavers are about 12 but can do weaving only, cannot yet do set-up work
- weavers paid per price at 40-50 Rp

51

per setagen, 20 Rp per towell; can weave about 4 setagen or 8-10 towells per day hence income +/- 200 Rp per day
- other workers paid by the day + get at Pak Mukhsin's place 250 Rp a day + 2 meals + a morning snack
- both houses complained of severe shortages of labor in recent years + say have no trouble marketing all they can make but can't make more due to lack of labor
- at Mbah Sumis place now are:

20 weavers who work on the premises
10 weavers who take work home
3 tukang jontro/tukang pintal
1 tukang sekir

formerly about 1970 were 50 weavers alone
- also complained that whereas formerly most weavers preferred to hire out to the larger pengusaha in the village, now prefer to work at home - even if