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54 the men but all processes thereafter done by women, incl: 1. cotton harvesting 2. separating of seeds from fiber (done by hand) 3. usuhan = bowing 4. spinning (primitive wheel)- more thread spun than woven - some sold 5. mengani = wrapping; done by older women Ikat don't by only a few familites - bend w/ axel thread - palm fiber - same rider that used to be used for weaving sails. unusual clothespin shaped shuttle thread comes out this hole tuban located along highway from Surabaya to Mojokento two villages where Rens has worked are Gaji and Kedungrejo Kedungrejo only does weaving, mainly white more gawa for use by batikers 55 Some women do whole cloth from spinning them batliking; these are women producing mainly for own use women who produce for sale or trade may buy more gawa from weavers Rens notes that batik work has a higher status than weaving, but doesn't know why 2 bakuls in Gaji (both women) - batikers can "titip" their pancaked pieces w. these women who sell out of pasan Kerek Dinas Perind pressuring women to convert to commercial dyes in bright colors - women themselves don't like these pieces but make a few because Dinas says they will market better tho Rens doesn't approve of this, says Pak Soenojo, head Din. Pr. Tuban, a fine fellow who really cares about the weavers Read of Margorejo village has 2x a weeks dippings w. commervial dyes Tulran uses 7-day rather than 5-day