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•CELEBRITY CHOICE•
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GREGORY JBARA 
(Squash in Victor/Victoria at the Marquis Theatre) chooses RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 148 W. 51st St., bet. 6th & 7th

Craving that quintessential New York sirloin? Look no farther than Ruth's Chris Steak House, which is as great as the experience gets. Service is attentive, yet never intrusive. Add a cigar-friendly bar - a big plus today - and you have steak heaven, a.k.a Ruth's Chris Steak House.
     
Corporate Manager Walter Perkowetz has wisely imbued the restaurant with his Big Apple steak smarts, and with the able input of Fernando Heredia, has come up with a place unlike any other. Brenda Vacarro, Dr. Joy (WOR) Browne and Ray Liotta all dig it.
     
We sampled a line-up of sirloin, Porterhouse, T-Bone, ribeye and filet steaks; the only ingredient wanting was an even heftier appetite! Chicken, lobster, fish and lamb dishes rate raves, too. 
     
Gazing into our Chris-tal ball, we predict you'll have great times at the Weehawken, N.J., and Tarrytown, N.Y., branches as well.

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE is open seven days, Mon.-Fri. noon-midnight. Sat. 4 pm-midnight. Sun. 4-10 pm. A la carte entrees $17.50-$33.95. Recommended wine list. Lovely party rooms. Dress cas. Cred. cds. Res. sug. 245-9600.

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GWEN STEWART
(Mrs. Jefferson in Rent at the Nederlander Theater) chooses LE RIVAGE, 340 W. 46th St., bet 8th & 9th Ave.

Le Rivage shines anew after a recent facelift as one of Restaurant Row's top values. The Denamiel frêres - host (and barman extraordinaire) Marcel and chef Auguste - ran esteemed Cafe du Soir for many years, and their expertise still manifests itself. We spotted a group of pleased Tony Award winners at dinner; along with such exponents of Americana as cast members of Rodgers and Hammerstein's State Fair, the Music Hall's Rockettes and Nicol Williamson.
     
Luncheon offered at a mere $14.75 is a deserved lure, especially on matinee days. Marcel's son Paul, a talented chef, has spruced up the ever-charming French country carte. Nighttime brings a table d'hôte menu heightened by snails in garlic butter, and potato leek soup, plus courses of fresh salmon steamed with herbs and mustard, grilled lamb chop with unique red wine sauce, and for dessert, a perfectly concocted crème brûlée.

LE RIVAGE is open Mon-Thurs. noon-9:30 pm. Fri., Sat. 11:30 am-10:30 pm (closed Sun.). Table d'hôte dinner entrees $23.75-$27.25. Interesting daily specials. Wines by glass or bottle. Approp. dress. Cred. cds. Res. 765-7374.


•AFTER THEATRE•

CASA DI MEGLIO Get past the scaffolding, and you'll find Casa di Meglio, a natural for casual post-theatre Italian cuisine. Prices are realistic, and the modest ambiance appealing. Meat, fish, chicken and pasta dishes are well conceived, as are desserts like tiramisu. (One can see why Beauty and the Beast stars hang here after curtain calls.) Open daily till midnight; Sun. & Mon. till 11 P.M. 235-237 W. 48th St. (door closest to 8th Ave.). 582-6577.

MI NIDITO A neat vegetarian menu, delectably cooked-to-order Mexican specialties, the freshest ingredients and spices, along with a possible 1,000 flavors of margaritas and daiquiris, account for the South of the Border success story. Gifted performers of Seven Guitars and The King and I are mad for guacamole, homemade chips and great combo creations, and you'll be, too. Open seven days, late. 852 Eighth Ave. (51st St.) 265-0022.

52     BY BOB EDISON

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Intermission lasts 15 minutes. Make the most of it.

Dewar's
You've got a real life. Enjoy it responsibly. Dewar's® "White Label"® • Blended Scotch Whisky • 40% ALC/VOL(80 Proof) • ©1996 Schieffelin & Somerset Co., NY, NY
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Transcription Notes:
Deleted italic notations per transcription guidelines