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[[underlined]] Chapter XIII. [[/underlined]] 270. and open valley of the Chên-ch'uan Ho [[3 Chinese characters]], a lefthand (eastern) affluent of the Yü Ho (see map, [[strikethrough]] pl. CXIX). [[/strikethrough]] ^[[fig. 53).]] Within the confluence of the two streams lies the lofty plateau of the Fang Shan, of which we had a fine view from the train, and where we hoped to begin excavations as soon as we received the governor's promised permission. Soon after emerging from the gorge into the more open country north of it, we passed through the Great Wall (here, as throughout the greater part of its vast length, merely a much eroded ram^[[par]]t of tamped earth) and by the salt lake aptly named the Han Hai [[2 Chinese characters]] or "Sea of Drought". Shortly thereafter the track turned westward, along a broad, well tilled valley bordered by ranges of low treeless hills, those on the left gradually receding while those on the right drew steadily nearer. Here, we noted, the streams flowed southwestward, toward the Yellow River; whereas those in the Ta T'ung region flowed east, to empty more directly into the Gulf of Chihli. The water-parting seemed roughly the line followed hereabout by the Great Wall through which we had just passed. Though the weather had already turned cold, with frost at night, the harvest was still in progress, and the red-wheeled country carts (a quite un-Chinese feature) were busy transporting the garnered ^[[c]]rops from field to store. In the ample pastures grazed flocks and herds---an unfamiliar sight in most parts of China, where all available ground is utilized in growing food for direct human consumption. We experienced a sensation of spaciousness and freedom to which we had long been strangers in more densely populated areas. We reached Sui-yüan late that afternoon, and took mule-carts to Kuei-hua Ch'êng, some 2 miles to the southwest. There we found lodging at a fine Chinese inn.
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