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wondering what I'd get this time - I'd thought the pensão at Hargreaves pretty terrible.  I asked the station agent if there was a pensão.  Não. I explained what I was doing and asked where I could stay overnight. His wife was standing in the door. She invited me into their tiny sitting room, next the ticket office, saying that if I cared to sleep on the cot in that room I was welcome. Oh joy! The place was clean and the two young people intelligent. My trunks were marked Viçasa and they asked if I was from the school there. I unpacked my presses in the freight

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room and next morning put them on a shed roof in the sun. With the help of my host I engaged a horse and camarado for next morning. I said 6, impossible, he would come at 7. Not later, I insisted - he came just before 8. We reached a valley at base of mts, having gone down and up over a high hill and down again and crossed a river, by 9:30.
I sent the boy back with the horses from there, I to climb the serra and return on foot. I had a glorious fatiguing, joyous, harrowing day of it. Just as I started