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minutes. Then the car has to be turned round, you have to stop and let the South wind cool off the radiator. In the burning summerheat that's no plaesure [[pencil correction: pleasure]]. In winter it is just as bad, for when the wind blows from the North, firs^[[t]] of all it is so cold, that 3 sheepskin coats will not keep you warm, besides [[strikethrough]] it [[/strikethrough]] the days are so short,that you cannot travel long stre^[[t]]ches. In summer you can sleep outside and start at daylight. [[strikethrough]] but during the wintertime you [[/strikethrough]] You do not have to stay in the stations at night^[[,]] unless you want to. You can get water from the wells for your radiator, there are wells all along the road every 20 to 30 miles, where [[underlined]] the cara^[[v]]ans [[/underlined]] stop at night [[underlined]] to water their animals [[/underlined]]. In winter, however, you cannot stay on the raod [[pencil correction: road]] on account of the car. In the evening the water has to be let out of the radiator and in the morning you need hot water to get your engine going. Even at the station it takes quite some time to get the engine warmed up. The chauffeur has a simple way of heating the engine. He takes a tray filled with burning [[insertion]] ^[[^]] dry [[/insertion]] cowdung and places it under the car, that warms the engine fairly quickly.

[[left margin]] Photo 10) [[/left margin]]

The road getting into Panghsian is rotten, it hardly ever rains there in summer and it is an awful job to push the car up the sand dunes. That means digging all the time, the most important travelling equipment is the spade, in summer you dig your car out of the sand, when it rains dig it out of the mud and in winter out of the snow. Near to Panhsian there is e very big alkali lake, the result is that the water in the well near that station is rotten and the tea made from the same is very bitter. Although it is very hot in the G[[strikethrough]] h [[/strikethrough]]obi during the day in summer, the water in the wells is icy cold. I once took a dozen bottles of beer along, a friend and I drank 8 bottles during the day, lukewarm of course, but still better than nothing. When we got to Panghsian we wrapped up the remaining 4 bottles in gunny cloth and lowered the package [[underlined]] into the well [[/underlined]]. I heard something go pop and hoped that is was only one or two, that had exploded but when we hauled our package out again, we found that all 4 had exploded, the difference in temperature was too great. 

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