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FASHION FORECAST
Resort collections offer the best warm weather clothes

[[image - black and white photograph of woman walking runway]]
[[caption]] Loose top and graceful printed shorts from Bill Haire's resort collection [[/caption]]

The clothes that American designers do best are the casual styles called sportswear. They are simple and unpretentious, comfortable to wear and undemanding of the wearer. The resort styles which will be coming into the stores later this month can only enhance the reputations of such practitioners of the art as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein and Perry Ellis.

These are, perhaps, the best known of the powerful group that carries the flag for American fashions. But they do not hold the fort alone. The extensive cast of characters who do attractive clothes along the same casual lines includes Bill Haire, Adri, Carmelo Pomodoro for Betty Hanson and a few new contenders such as Leo Narducci, who for the past three years has
been concentrating on knitted styles for Dalton, and Albert Capraro, best known for evening dresses. Both Mr. Narducci and Mr. Capraro are offering sportswear collections for resort.

 While each designer has his special touch, there are some themes that extend through all the collections. They include:

- Hemlines that hover between calf or ankle length.

- Graceful shorts that provide an alternative to long pants or long skirts.

-Emphasis on crisp white linen, alone or in combination with jacquard pattern silks, thin suedes, cottons or tropical-weight worsteds.

Resort collections are geared mainly to two groups of women: those who live in the Sun Belt, where winters are brief or non-existent, and those who travel to warm climates to get away from Northern winters, whether for a weekend or a month at a time. Consequently, they include clothes for leisure hours as well as clothes for work. There are even dressy styles to wear for dinner and evening parties, but they retain the casual slant. A cotton sweater with a softly draped satin skirt is as dressy as these clothes get.

It has long been known by fashion insiders that resort collections offer the best selection of warm weather clothes and designers corroborate the fact that this is certainly the truth. They are far more adventurous in their choice of fabrics, they report, and they tend to show more diverse shapes than they do in their regular summer collections. The reason is summer is a relatively short season, since most stores begin moving their fall and winter clothes into their shops in July. Consequently, summer collections are shorter and tend to focus on sure things. Resort collections have a broader scope. For women who have their fall and winter wardrobes under

by Bernadine Morris

48

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