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tation. Wise or foolish, the election is honest.

Coty's role in the procedure is picking up the tab for expenses, which it has done since the beginning. In return for this it gets its name on the prize, the full title of which is the Coty American Fashion Critics' Award. Eleanor Lambert, the publicist, has served as the coordinator from the beginning and is responsible for convincing the perfume and cosmetics firm that it could profit from sponsoring a fashion award.

The site and the nature of the presentation ceremonies have varied throughout the years, from modest ones at Gracie Mansion during the war to elaborately staged fashion shows at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Alice Tully Hall in Lincoln Center.

For the last few years, they have taken place at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the school that funnels many of its students into Seventh Avenue.  Instead of being limited to members of the fashion industry, the shows are open to anyone willing to pay $150 for a ticket to see what presumably is the best the fashion industry has to offer. Proceeds go to the school's educational fund and are used to help fund its research center.  There is always talk of televising the event, to spread the news further, but this hasn't come to pass as yet.

As it is today, the show is a one-night stand, covering many aspects of the fashion scene. It is no longer a simple parade of austere-looking models gazing into the middle distance as they glide and occasionally pivot on the stage. In the new order of fashion shows, it involves dancers, music, slides and sometimes film.

But what has changed most since the first presentations in the 1940's is the clothes. They're far less formal and often less expensive than the ones that won prizes for their makers 30 years ago. They're casual instead of stiff, easy to move around in and usually more colorful. They're no longer faithful copies of what couture designers in Paris made for wealthy clients. American fashion has come of age. American designers have created their own style. In so far as it has encouraged them, the Coty Awards have helped.

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[[image - photograph of a family in front of a set of double doors--a woman, man and a child held by the man and asleep on his shoulder with an "Annie" playbill in hand.]]

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