Winter in Mexico lecture recording, undated, reel 2 part 1, Lisa Chickering and Jeanne Porterfield Collection
Web Video Text Tracks Format (WebVTT)
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[[applause]]
Lisa Chickering : Thank you.
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Lisa Chickering : Well as you've seen so far, Mexico certainly isn't lacking in variety, wonderful people, animals, and one crazy woman who flew high above the bay of Acapulco in a parachute.
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You know, so many people have asked me if I liked it, and what it was like, but I want to tell you there was one wonderful moment.
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That was when I got back down, safely on the solid ground of Mexico.
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Now let's all of us get back down to Mexico. Just strap up your parachutes and let's go!
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[SILENCE]
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Lisa Chickering : Don't laugh, this might be happening by tomorrow.
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So the nice thing for us about spending the winter in Mexico is that we could get the newspapers from home but not the weather.
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Basking in this happy thought, we were staying at a terrific new resort hotel in Mazatlán. Atop rugged rocks, it was built in 1971.
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Along a golden stretch of sand and sea, encompassing to us the best of two worlds: Itself and the adjacent city of Mazatlán.
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Mazatlán spreads out gracefully to its miles of sweeping beaches. Located on the northwest coast, it's one of Mexico's best and least expensive resorts.
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The breezy beaches that front the entire city give it an unusual wide open spaciousness. But you know, with all the many broad beaches, isn't it strange how so many like to crowd all into one area?
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Along with beaches, Mazatlán's famous for both commercial and some of the best deep-sea sport fishing in the world.
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So armed with curiosity, a taste for adventure, and a good supply of Dramamine, we decided to try our hand at it.
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What we should have brought along for this sport was a supply of vitamins and a comb.
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Each year, over one million pounds of game fish are caught here and right now they all seem to be on Jeanne's line.
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Fortunately, the captain gave not only encouragement, but his strength to help terminate the struggle.
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Lisa Chickering : [[continuing]] On the crest of success and waves that felt far too high, we headed back to shore.
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Lisa Chickering : I'm sure though that this giant of the sea learned the hard way not to underestimate the strength of a woman. Jeanne was proud and so was I.
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Lisa Chickering : The owner of Mazatlán's largest sport fishing fleet congratulated Jeanne. He's been in the business for 25 years and seemed duly impressed.
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Lisa Chickering : The one remaining thing for us was to pose for the customary picture and receive our certificates.
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Lisa Chickering : My sailfish weighed one hundred and one pounds, Jeanne's one hundred and five. But you know, when you cook these big fish, they shrink up!
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[[Laughter]]
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Lisa Chickering : And that's the end of our fish story.
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Lisa Chickering : South of Mazatlán is a jungle area we thought would be exciting to explore. It looks more like the setting for an African adventure film.
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Lisa Chickering : And though we didn't have our pith helmets or safari jackets, we ventured forth up river. And almost immediately, we saw a large group of white ibis resting in the brush.
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Lisa Chickering : This deserted back-country is an ecological haven for all kinds of wildlife, which can exist here because it's far from the cities and their industry, which pollutes the rivers and streams.
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Lisa Chickering : Winding through the jungle, we turned into a tunnel-like estuary. here we were encircled by the thick tropical growth of mangroves.
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Lisa Chickering : Our boatman told us to look carefully in the dense jungle growth for wild birds and animals.
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Lisa Chickering : Which we did. And here we saw a bright green iguana on the center branch.
[SILENCE]
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Lisa Chickering : Well after that, it was sort of good to see the human species coming along the river.
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As our eyes became accustomed to the varying dark shadows, we began to see more and more wildlife. Such as a rare blue heron.
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In order to protect these creatures, Mother Nature has given many colors that seem to blend into their natural surroundings. Such as a green parrot.
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But she sure slipped up on this next one.
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[[Crowd laughter]]
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This area's great for photographers, but not for cowards. Here we saw huge iguanas. And towering termite nests.
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But when we saw an iguana over 6 feet long directly above our heads--
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Well, we asked our boatman to get us out of here but fast.
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From the jungles to the pastoral setting of Pátzcuaro. Quite a change of scene. Nestled in the north central part of the country, it's one of Mexico's most charming towns.
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It was built in the 16th century on the site of an ancient Taraskan city and is still in the heart of Taraskan Indian county.
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An easy-going peacefulness prevails and after our wildlife expedition we were really in the mood for some comforts.
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So seeing such spacious grounds, which include even a small private chapel for the guests, we decided to stay here. At Pátzcuaro's well-known inn the Posada de Don Vasco.
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The colonial-style posada, with it's secluded patio, was just what we were looking for. It has the perfect combination of all the comforts of today, along with the atmosphere of yesterday.
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And from our balcony we could look out over the countryside to Lake Pátzcuaro. Dotted with several islands, the largest is the island of Janitzio.
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And every day the Taraskan Indians who inhabit the various islands can be seen paddling into town for their supplies.
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The island of Janitzio is the largest, and most important lake island, and is the home of the butterfly fishermen.
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They're not catching butterflies though, but are so named because of the butterfly-shape of their nets. These unusual nets can be found only here, and the men skillfully manipulate them as if they were performing some graceful ballet.
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Early every morning, the men can be seen fishing in this artistic manner. However it's not an art-form for them, but their only form of making a living.
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This day they weren't too successful, and caught none of the small, white fish indigenous to Lake Pátzcuaro. In general they do better though, and earn about a dollar and half to two dollars a day throughout the year.
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By mid-morning they finish and head back to shore. The women come down to help beach the boats and also to unload the catch.
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Although, this day it was only water to unload. Their primitive form of fishing has been going on for centuries, and probably will continue for many more.
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The island of Janitzio consists of one large hill, with houses that crowd and cling to its sides right up to the top--
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-that's crowned by a massive 135 foot statue of one of the nation's heroes, Morelos.
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One of the fishermen, Ligio Campo trudges up the steep hill en route to his house.
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Waving upon his arrival, he cheerfully tells his wife he didn't catch any fish today. Well now this bit of news didn't seem to cheer her a bit, as she busily continues making a new net for him.
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Ligio lives on the island with his wife, two daughters - Angela and Maria - and a small grandson also named Ligio.
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For generations their families have lived on the island - an island that because of it's remote lake location and pure-blood Tarascan Indins has changed little over the centuries.
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In fact, few of the inhabitants here even speak Spanish. Still maintaining their ancient Tarascan language.
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Here there are no cars, no phones, no TV, no central heating, a minimum of electricity and very little running water.
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They're far removed from our way of life, and actually seem to prefer it that way.
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The life and activity the entire population centers around the island's one industry: fishing.
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Everywhere the women can be seen making the fishnets-- while the men, when not fishing, are making their own boats.
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They carve them out of one solid trunk of pine.
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And aside from selling their fish to the mainland markets, needless to say that for themselves, their favorite dish is fish.
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The 40 minute boat trip over to the island from Pátzcuaro was well worth the time, for it's like a step back in time to glimpse another life in another century.
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After leaving the island of Janitzio, we found that everywhere there were rental signs for Jeeps: the car necessary to use on Mexico's many off-the-beaten-path trips.
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Well, fortunately we had our own. Or was it fortunate? This definitely required shifting into four-wheel drive, but what about being able to shift our nerves into control too?
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From a distance, we had seen what looked like a beautiful area, so with cameras, courage, and curiosity, we turned off at a precarious precipice to get a better look.
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It was fun being able to turn off the road anywhere we felt like it, but right now with no possible way to turn back, well truthfully we felt more like being on a four-land highway.
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Nervously approaching the end, we decided it had been worth it, as we looked at close-range down to the 2000 foot Oblatos gorge.
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This rugged terrain lies just a few miles just outside the city of Guadalajara.
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On a high plateau, it's four hundred and twenty miles northwest of Mexico City. It's a busy, bustling metropolis with a population of over a million and a quarter, making it the country's second city in size, and importance.
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In this part of the country, there never was a great civilized Indian culture to build on or around, so Guadalajara has more pure Spanish features, with large open squares and ornate buildings.
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Founded in 1542, it still retains much of it's tranquil charm, along with surging progress and modernization.
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In parts of the city it's almost like being in Rome. In fact, Guadalajara is fast approaching the Italian capital's claim as being the number one city for spouting spectacular fountains.
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This one in Alcalde park is particularly impressive, although it's just one of dozens of cascading fountains decorating the city.
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And Guadalajara's air of glamour and sophistication is accented by the many colorful sidewalk cafes scattered throughout the city.
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But one of the most popular is where Mariachi bands serenade you. Here, several bands, one at each table, played different songs.
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All at the same time. Well, luckily I do travel with earplugs.
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Mariachi music originated here, as did the "charros": Mexico's elite group of horsemen, noted for their equestrian skills.
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This is Roberto Verdia, one of Guadalajara's leading charros, and in typical charro tradition his children are following in their father's footsteps.
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His son, Carlos, rides extremely well. As does his 14 year old daughter Lorenza. However, she's called a charra. Spelled with an "a" and must ride side-saddle.
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Lisa Chickering : Here Roberto's putting his horse through its paces for the coming competition on Sunday.
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Lisa Chickering : There have been charros in Mexico ever since the Spaniards first introduced horses to the country.
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Lisa Chickering : The Spanish equestrian customs were then adapted to their new environment, and fused with the Mexican elements to create a most romantic figure: the Mexican charro.
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Lisa Chickering : They're noble and dashing, like Roberto and Carlos, who are following in the centuries old traditions.
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Lisa Chickering : In all of Mexico there are about 50 charro associations, which are actually clubs made up of these horsemen skilled in riding and roping.--
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Lisa Chickering : Roberto is the president of his club, 1 of 10 in Guadalajara, and once a month during the winter months they meet to compete against each other. Don't you think that it looks - well, it's sort of obvious that he rides a great deal?
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[[Crowd laughter]] [[Lisa Chickering clears throat]]
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Lisa Chickering : Roberto in his garden with his family and a fellow charro discuss the coming competition. Most charros are businessmen by profession - charros by choice.
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Lisa Chickering : Roberto is a chemical engineer and president of a leading firm. His wife, Alicia, although no longer a charra, rides very well.
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Lisa Chickering : They live with their family in Guadalajara's Garden District: a fashionable residential area of the city.
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Lisa Chickering : Roberto, Carlos, and Lorenza leave their house for the special charro ring, to participate in the afternoon's events.
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Lisa Chickering : On Sundays, at noon, this exhibition, called a charriata, takes place. It's similar to our rodeos, although it must follow certain traditions and is always introduced with stylized formalities.
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Lisa Chickering : After the opening parade, Roberto as president, proudly enters the ring on his prancing horse to formally greet the judges and audience, which in turn signifies the charriata can commence.
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Lisa Chickering : And on this day, Roberto's club is competing against another of Guadalajara's leading clubs.
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As is customary, each charro now charges in to introduce himself.
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They come in at full gallop, and must stop at a precise point. Well, usually at a precise point.
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[[Mariachi music in the background]] And now a Mariachi band accompanies all of the afternoon's activities.
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[[Mariachi music]]
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[[Mariachi music in the background]] Now riding bareback at full gallop, Carlos switches from one horse to another, and backwards at that.
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[[Mariachi music in the background]] He's one of only two charros in all of Mexico who could perform the dangerous feat, called the Pass of Death, which climaxes the charriata.
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[[Mariachi music]]
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30 miles south, the dawn light touches the shores of Lake Chapala with an ethereal beauty.
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Early every morning, the local fishermen can be seen around the lake working on their nets.
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Lake Chapala is Mexico's largest lake, being 50 miles long and 20 miles wide. But although large, it yields the extremely small, white fish called charales-
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-and is considered a great delicacy in the area. And here fishermen bring in nets full of them.
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Lisa Chickering: Towns, villages and hamlets line the lake; the most important being the town of Chapala.
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Lisa Chickering: With a population of around seventy-three hundred (7300), it's the inland riviera of the country.
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Lisa Chickering: Also Chapala is the playground for Guadalajara, which is just 30 miles to the north.
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Lisa Chickering: Chapala has awakened from being the proverbial sleepy fishing village, to become a very popular resort for the Mexicans.
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Lisa Chickering: Also, more and more the American way of life is taking hold here. And in more ways than one.
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Lisa Chickering: Not only in the lake - [[Crowd chuckles]] - but all around it.
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Lisa Chickering: This area is now like a magnet, luring Americans to its shores in droves. Everywhere there are new houses and residential areas to accommodate the estimated 5,000 Americans now living here.
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Lisa Chickering: A figure that is constantly on the upswing. In fact, the Guadalajara/Lake Chapala area combined claims 17,000 American residents.
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Lisa Chickering: Construction in all stages is taking place. Building costs are low, in comparison to ours, which enables many to build their long-awaited dream house from scratch-
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Lisa Chickering: - or to remodel a charming old hacienda. But don't be in too big a hurry though, as in Mexico the brick layers just might decide to take a break:
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Lisa Chickering: -between each brick. [[Crowd laughter]]
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Lisa Chickering: Signs in English and Spanish announce there are many properties available. And as many of the houses have girl's names, you know I've found it rather difficult to resist this one.
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Lisa Chickering: All types of places can be found to fit all types of budgets. For instance: a 2 bedroom furnished apartment here rents for $125 a month.
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Lisa Chickering: Small townhouses sell for $12-15,000 dollars, while medium size go for 20-25,000.
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Lisa Chickering: Of course, palatial homes sell anywhere from $35,000 dollars and up. Here you live in a mansion or a trailer.
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Lisa Chickering: There are dozens of trailer parks, and space rents for about a dollar a day. And if that's too much, well, we can pitch a tent.
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Lisa Chickering: Here there is an English-speaking, non-denominational church along with fine golf courses where no language is necessary.
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Lisa Chickering: Well, that is except perhaps to swear a little. The temperate year-round climate is one of the main attractions, and it was hard for me to realize, being from New York, that in mid-winter-
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Lisa Chickering: -while the trees in Chapala are laden with flowers - the trees back home, where I come from, can be quite different.
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Seems only a few days ago that we were braving the icy wind and cold up north to dig out our car to get to Mexico. Then we had to brush off snow.
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While in Mexico we brush off flowers. Now I'll take this any day.
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Chapala boasts the 2nd best climate in the world, the first being Addis Ababa Ethiopia. But now, that is pretty far away, so many come here and so did we, to stay at Chapala's newest resort-hotel.
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It was opened in 1971, and along with attracting tourists, it's a gathering place every Sunday for Mexicans and local American residents, who are of course serenaded by those ever-present Mariachis.
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[[Mariachi music]]
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Another village along the lake adjacent to Chapala is Ajijic, where many Americans live too.
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It has the unspoiled character of a typical Indian village, with the customary plaza and cobblestone streets, which I guess are just some of the reasons why Ajijic is steadily growing in popularity.
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One of Ajijic's most prominent residents is Neil James, an American from Georgia. She came here in 1941 to spend only a few weeks, but became so captivated by it she's been here ever since.
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And along with planning her outstanding garden, Neil James is around 80 years old, designed and erected the building of 13 houses in Ajijic, including her own.
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Also being a talented, versatile person, she's written 5 successful books about her world travels, including: "Dust On My Heart" about Mexico.
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Also Neil has contributed generously to the community. She's given the village 2 libraries, sponsors local aspiring artists, including Tony and Manuel who you saw in the first half for the program in San Miguel.
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But one of her most philanthropic projects has been establishing a cottage industry, and here in her home she's checking the work of some of the girls who sew and do embroidery.
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In order the help them earn a living, Neil employs many to make various articles of clothing. She supplies the materials and then puts the finished pieces in a shop she opened on the grounds.
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The shop does a very good business, and after the overhead has been met, the proceeds are then given to the-
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So it's no wonder that throughout this area that she's fondly known as Señora Ajijic. Then, just up the street from Neil James' house is the Casa de los Arjos. The stately home of Helen and Roy Water.
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8 years ago they moved from Denver to Ajijic. They had spent several vacations here, but upon his retirement they made the vacation permanent.
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Now along with golf and bridge, their main interest is their home, which in just 8 years has tripled in value.
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Although their way of living is certainly not inexpensive, they said that to live comparably in the United States would be an impossibility.
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And as the average wage in Mexico for household help is still quite a bit lower than ours, they're able to have several to care for their home, grounds, and profusion of flowers.
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You know it's interesting to compare the various ways of living in this area for Americans. From Neil James' charming, but more rustic house, to this palatial one of the Waters.
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Then, right on Ajijic's plaza, Lou Hilfer has an apartment that could fit into just about anyone's pocketbook, and at the same time would appeal to just about anyone's taste.
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Here, with his dog, he lives in an attractively furnished 4 room apartment that rents for the grand total of $35 dollars a month.
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Lou, who's retired Army sergeant, said that on his retirement pay of $300 a month, he's able to live comfortably in Ajijic,
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Take trips, and at the same time save money too. And along with his spacious apartment, he also has a large private garden.
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And in it, year round, he grows a variety of things. Including oranges, lemons, limes, and bananas.
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And to top it all off, the $35 dollars a month also includes a maid, who comes in once a week to clean the apartment and do laundry. She'll even cook a taco or two.
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Well having done extensive traveling in his military career, Lou said he has now definitely found utopia.
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And after this, I just wonder why I'm not living there too. In fact, you know I think after this program I'm going to leave immediately!
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Many American celebrities have chosen to live in various parts of Mexico, too. Such as Sloan Simpson.
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Here, she's planning a menu for a special party with Emanuel [[d'Compte ??]], the former chef of Maxim's in Paris.
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Before making Mexico her home, Sloan Simpson was married to New York City's Mayor O'Dwyer, who later became the American Ambassador to Mexico.
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It was as Mrs. Ambassador that she became enamored with the country, and it with her. Now she works in public relations for a leading American airline company, and her name and popularity have become synonymous with that of Acapulco.
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Here she's talking with Don Budge and his wife Laurie. They too make their home in Mexico. As you all know, Don Budge won world fame as one of the greatest tennis players of all times.
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And in the late 1930s was the outstanding champion in the sport, with his name recorded in the annals of tennis history. And now he said he lives where he can play tennis year-round, so his style and form remain excellent.
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Also he's able to continue working in his chosen profession as a tennis-pro at one of the leading resort hotels. But you know, I was just thinking, perhaps he should take on Bobby Riggs just once more! [[Crowd chuckles]]
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Another very popular place to live is Cuernavaca. Just 30 miles south of Mexico City, it's a bright, semi-tropical area.
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As far back as 1530 it became the favorite place for the conquering Cortez, who build this palace here that's now a popular tourist attraction.
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And Maximillian and Carlotta, who briefly ruled in Mexico, escaped the busy capital to spend weekends here. So, over the centuries Cuernavaca has been well tested and proven to be an ideal place to live.
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Only 12 years ago the population was 20,000. Now it's over 65,000.
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Everywhere houses are crowding and pushing up hills, and new projects are spreading out in all directions.
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And scattered on hillsides and in ravines, some of the most beautiful homes in the entire country can be found.
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One prominent American living here is Ruth Montgomery, the world famous author and lecturer.
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In her study, she's completing the manuscript of her latest book titled: "Born to Heal". One of her most widely read books was "A Gift of Prophecy", about the clairvoyant Jeane Dixon.
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It was on the best-seller list for over 6 months, and many of her other works have the distinction of being on that elite list too, such as "World Beyond."
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Her popular books are published not only in English, but in many foreign languages as well.
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An interesting, stimulating person, her friends have numbered many and including some of our presidents and leading politicians.
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Ruth takes a break from her work to have tea with her husband in their patio. Bob Montgomery retired a few years ago from business because he wanted to live in Mexico.
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She too likes everything about life there, and being a writer she's able to continue her work by taking it with her.
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The only thing she did stop was being a syndicated feature columnist on political affairs; a position she held for 25 years with the Washington Post.
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Early every morning, Bob goes to one of the local cafes to meet with other retired American businessmen. They discuss - well, whatever men discuss when they're alone, as well as business and finance.
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They told us that many Americans are putting their money into Mexican savings banks, which pay 10 and 12% interest. Also, their various promissory notes and bonds that yield 15 and 18%.
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These investments are backed by the Mexican government and considered safe. In fact, the Mexican currency is one of the most stable in the world today.
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Well, from the story of Mexico's present-day economic strength, to the glories of it's past and the great ruins of Teotihuacan.
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Originally built by an archaic people that lived before Christ. They built this largest structure here, called the Pyramid of the Sun. Along with a smaller, Pyramid of the Moon.
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Over the centuries, many cultures have left their mark here, especially the Toltecs. This important archaeological zone consists of a variety of ancient courts and temples, and on the temple walls sculptured serpents ferociously peer out.
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Animals and reptiles were always important to the early Indian civilizations, and statues of the Aztec's strange looking dog, dating back over 800 years, still exist.
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As does a live one!
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Lisa Chickering: The worries of the century seem etched on this puppy's brow. This breed is called a Xoloitzcuintli which in Aztec means "hairless". When the Aztecs disappeared, their pets took refuge in the mountains and somehow a few managed to survive the wilds of time.
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Lisa Chickering: Along with prehistoric webbed feet, their completely hairless bodies have a temperature of 104 degrees. Consequently, they were not only the Aztecs's pet, but were used as hot water bottles too.
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Lisa Chickering: In all of the world, there only about 130 of these dogs and Nancy Lowenstein has 11 which she'll sell for $800, each.
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Lisa Chickering: Now that is expensive, for a hot water bottle. But, it does have moving parts. Fortunately, this breed can now can be seen in real life, as well as in statutes.
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Lisa Chickering: Also from the past, a 1500 year old doll has found its way into the sun and into the hands of Annette Nancarrow.
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Lisa Chickering: For centuries these fragments and figurines lay buried in the earth.
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Lisa Chickering: Then, when Annette was building her home in Mexico City 36 years ago, they were accidentally unearthed -
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Lisa Chickering: - and since then working with them and preserving them have become one of her main interests. An authority in archeology and art, she combines the two to create unique jewelry from the time-worn pieces.
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Lisa Chickering: [[pause]] Annette received her masters degree in art. And excelling in the field, she did mural paintings with Rivera and Orozco and is an integral part of Mexico's art world.
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Lisa Chickering: She said she's always found inspiration for her work, not only in the artifacts of the people of the past, but in the faces of the people of today, such as her housekeeper whose face clearly reflects her pure Mayan background.
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Lisa Chickering: Annette lives right in the heart of Mexico City which she says is like living in the heart of yesterday and today.
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Lisa Chickering: And today, Mexico City, the capital of this varied nation, is the home for almost 9 million people. Also being the oldest inhabited city in the Western hemisphere, you can stroll from the present into the past, as is dramatically illustrated in the plaza of the 3 cultures.
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Lisa Chickering: All in one area, [there] are Aztec ruins in the foreground, the Spanish colonial church in the center, and all surrounded by the modern buildings of today.
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Lisa Chickering: Whenever Mexico takes a step into the future, a relic from the past is unearthed. And, in turn, housed in Mexico City's outstanding and ultra-modern Museum of Anthropology.
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Lisa Chickering: And everywhere in this city the architects seem to be striving for the unusual. The ultimate being the newest and largest hotel, the Camino Real.
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Lisa Chickering: It's uniquely constructed and although sleekly futuristic, it's built along the lines of the ancient pyramids. Although, I don't think the pyramids had swimming pools.
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Lisa Chickering: We decided to take advantage of one, and as there are four within this hotel, it's like a resort within the city. It is an easy thing to do.
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Lisa Chickering: But if one doesn't feel like participating in a sport, well, there are many spectator sports that take place during the winter months in Mexico City. For instance, the Hipódromo, one of the world's handsomest racetracks that is an exciting place to go.
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Lisa Chickering: Here the entrance fee is only 40 cents, and the minimum bet that can be placed is 80 cents. So if you are careful, you won't have to go home in just your sombrero.
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[[Pause]]
Lisa Chickering: But, if one doesn't feel like taking a chance on parting with pesos, well there's soccer, an action packed game.
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[[Pause]]
Lisa Chickering: Crowds fill the stadium for this sport that's steadily growing in popularity for the Mexicans. But being a Latin country many will always go to the world's largest bullring. [[silence]]
