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RESTAURANT service in Japan is wonderful. The cordiality begins when the customer enters. No sooner does he get inside the door than the waitress or the bus boy or the manager will bow and say, "Irrasshiai-mase." All those letters add up to spell a welcome to the American.

As soon as the customer is seated the smiling waitress speeds to his table. She brings and oshibori, a wet towel, neatly rolled and placed in a small wicker basket. This is for cleaning the hands before eating, and if the patron wishes, for wiping the brow.

In the restaurant it appears to the American that there is one waitress whose job it is to do nothing but fill water glasses. A diner's water glass is never empty because no sooner does he swallow the last drop than she is there to pour him more. After the meal, which for some reason is always delicious, the customer leaves to a parade of more bowing and to the tune of "thank you very much, thank you very much, please come again."

Another nice thing about the Japanese restaurant is that the GI doesn't get that I'm-a-heel feeling when he can't afford to leave a tip. The Japanese do not really expect it. When they are tipped, they consider it a favor and a compliment, not a gesture that will guarantee a guy a decent meal in the place again.

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