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of Andean type made in Chile - Chiloe produces v.rough things. Closed at 6:30. Luis, our interpreter asked young woman clerk where good Chilean restaurant - got address. She couldn't come w. us. We decided to ride tram to top of Cerro San Cristobal. I proposed taking taxi; which we did for 250 p. We chose to ride train up and funicular down. Nearing sunset, breeze cool & fresh - could glimpse Andes nearby to East. Another interesting hill, w sentimental white plastic virgin at top. & testimonials to her favors granted all around base. A zoo & lots of trees & flowers. Rode funic. down, very good views of city but still smoggy, industrial, undistinguished except for one old cathedral with elongate domes like Sacre Coeur. Not an attractive city. At foot of Cerro, took taxi to go to restaurant, via the [[??]] this time. As drove through one area saw lots of Lapis Lazuli shops. Jeff & I got interested, decided to look & keep taxi. Driver told us best Lapis place is shop of mine owner -- to go there he retraced route to base of funicular & to house nearby - gate locked, shop closed. Back again & stopped at a shop -- went in just for a look, & all of us bought something. 8:00 PM & all other shops closed. I bought necklace for $82 US cash. "special discount for cash, today only." I know I'm coming back but still used the old Ted Nichols advice, -- See something you like -- take it. Besides, Jeff was so enthusiastic about the stones & the value. Lapis & silver boxes for ~$30-50. Remarkable beauty & value. The proprietor was lucky he didn't close a minute earlier. Off to restaurant. A big place for tourists (bus outside) but clean, jolly & w tipico food (fish, carne etc) started w Pisco sour - Excellent! and relaxing [I needed it: grubby & tired]. Then cold antipasto of ham, palm, cheese etc. for all. Congre (fish) w pearl rice. Min water con gaz, white wine - preserved papaya (!) and cafecito. Music - singing dancing. Suddenly two dancers came & grabbed Jeff & me => floor. Then, after