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José arrived at 11:30 to take him to airport.

We also arranged for him to take Dick & Janice out at 9 a.m., us to ferry at 8:30 a.m. and us to Museo Patagonia at 2:00 p.m. Brian & Scott had gone to museo yesterday & gotten a guided tour, w. a chance to see old maps and photos etc.

Had lunch in bar at Los Navagantes -- toasted bun w bife & tomato - beer. Excellent. Tom and I looked around at outdoor machinery & implements - photog. an ancient barrow, saw a domesticated kit fox. Inside library is a grand exhibit of old maps, some original, of Magallaner area &, indeed, both Americas. Priceless - and unguarded. I wanted to take photos, but left flash behind. Bought copy of only one available. In addition to maps there was an ancient stereopticon exhibit of ~ 60 photos of old Patagonia & P.A. Astounding 3D effect. Persons, penguins, indiginos -- each one actually lived -- the effect was most dramatic.

We looked around a little - model of Fort B. & searched for a S. lapwing where I saw them before -- no luck; but we did see a big thrush -- like a robin w. yellow wash on breast & belly - Austral thrush?
 
Walked across road to Zona Franca to buy a zoom telephone lens. Got exactly what we wanted - Vivitar, 70-210 - at drop of hat. Had to have Mastercard checked on because of early expiration date -- but walked out w. lens in no time. I am astonished and pleased all over again. Just the lens we need.

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Looked for José but saw him driving a carload of passengers, so took other taxi home. Dinner at Peppinos with Brian, Scott, Janice, Richard, Tom, their post doc en route to winter at Palmer. Pisco sour [[underlined]] awful [[/underlined]]. Lasagna [[underlined]] awful [[/underlined]] (over cooked, luke warm) papaya in syrup unidentifiable - restaurant awful -- except that Richard ordered spagetti with pesto sauce & that came steaming & v. good.

[[underlined]] Thursday, March 21. [[/underlined]] First day of Autumn - Spring.

Up early, out at 8:30 w José who drove us to ferry and took us aboard; then went back for Janice, Rich, Tom. (Tom speaks Spanish from living to age ~5 in Mexico). Ferry loaded w cars, trucks & passengers. I staked out upper deck out of range of diesel fumes. Seats all wet from night shower. People had different look -- lean, brown, black hair, dark eyes - small. Cast off ~ 9:15 on gorgeous day. Gulls, giant petrels, then suddenly, albatrosses - black-browed. Dozens of them - then we passed a flotilla of them on water & they all flew up. We saw hundreds of albatrosses as we crossed Strait of Magellan - also one steamer duck ^[[& Mag. penguin.]] As we approached Porvenir flocks of the small red beaked & footed gulls. A terrific ferry ride of ~ 2 hrs & 15 minutes. 

[[strikethrough]] Few [[/strikethrough]] At dock on Tierra del Fuego were a few yellow, pink, blue houses, lots of birds, sev. taxis, & no sign of Porviner -- 6 km away.

We were approached by a persistent taxi driver & rode w. him. He spoke rapid fire Spanish

Transcription Notes:
bife = steak