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with totally new emphasis -- a different lingo from what we're used to. He was lean & weatherbeaten & colorful. Tom said we wanted to go to town for lunch & then ride out to Lago de Cisnos to see swans. He replied that the big lakes (on my map) are dried up -- no swans, but he could take us to lake where there are some. We agreed to ride out at 2:00. He drove us to the Yugoslavian Club on the bay. A private club, no sign of a place to eat, but he went in with us & presented us to the waiter. Later, another taxi driver did same thing w other group. The waiter recommended cazuelo & it was lovely. Clear broth with slices of carrot & one big potato & one big piece of beef. One (or two) of those would have been perfect for us, but we had ordered sandwiches of beef & tomato & so we ate them as well. Facilities very handy. In p.m. we strolled thru park across from the Club & saw all sorts of birds - 3 gulls, incl brown headed, peeps (Sanderlings?), sparrows. Black-necked swan statue featured in center of park. Driver picked us up ~ 1:50 & drove out on road to San Sebastian. We had some problems w. communication, but got used to his style. Into hills, stopping here & there for birds, we suddenly came upon a round lake and there they were -- black-necked swans: pristine white with velvety black necks, red [[haunch??]] at base of bill & blueish tip - white mark bill to eye. The most beautiful swans we have [[end page]] [[start page]] ever seen, and one of the most beautiful birds. It was wonderful simply to look at them. Paddling about with them were small grebes, coots, & a few ducks. We stayed & watched awhile - took pictures, then drove on over pass toward coast of Strait. Parked in a field and began to climb down sea cliff. Toward the bottom he displayed a bubbling spring. Explained, with a cigarette lighter in hand, that if he ignited it it would burn. We said we believed him. He didn't demonstrate. Climbed down to pebbly shore. Saw cincloides birds playing near surf line. I cannot think what we call similar birds at home. Then he showed us a "polania del mar" - dove of the sea - a completely white goose w. black eye & bill and a mate with banded grey. Along shore -- I wondered if he would leave us there & drive away -- we followed him under steep sea cliffs to place where we could climb back to car. We drove back the way we came -- stopped and enjoyed black-necked swans again & then back to Porvenir. We asked him to take us - after he had driven to a park w. overlook -- to the CEMA place. It proved to be a spinning & weaving shop where women were producing skeins of wool & a woven mat. They made us welcome & offered a few things for sale -- Tom bought a cap - wool, but scratchy, saying "Tierra del Fuego" & I bought two little hangings w penguins & a black-necked swan. Then, to DAC headquarters on the bay. We agreed on 600 pesos/hour & expected 4 hours, but only used 3 hours. Actually, after Tom confirmed our