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hold on frontwards but turn their heads around & look back on to the side. They are ashy gray on cheeks with white patch above the bill - center forehead. Big oval eyes. Dunning couldn't photograph a swift, but his book zero's in on the [[underlined]] Great Dusky Swift [[/underlined]] (p. 221). We watched them fly in & out of perch areas, some of them behind curtains of falling water. A few flowers on islands & clinging to walls, but no wild begonias I think I remember. Also saw beautiful [[underlined]] plush crested jay [[/underlined]]: violet blue w creamy breast & spots on tail. Lt. blue above eye & on nape. A [[underlined]] tropical parula [[/underlined]], looking & singing like a warbler; [[underlined]] shiny cowbird [[/underlined]] (?), parrots overhead in flocks, house sparrows around hotel, a pale breasted finch w lt. beak, a large brown-backed yellow-breasted & bellied fly catcher (2 of them), a thrush. The flycatcher looked, from below, like a [[underlined]] yellow-browed tyrant [[/underlined]], altho we could not see yellow stripe above eye. The thrush looked like a robin w. no color - no ident. Tourists in great crowds in all states of dress. And undress. One couple wearing very little. Middle aged and dumpy but she in a bikini - w roll of fat around [[strikethrough]] top [[/strikethrough]] edge of bottom, large breasts with hard nipples showing through soft cloth - hat reading "Thailand." ^[[Large cluster of wormy varicose veins behind knee.]] Her man, in thin band around lower middle, taking a movie of her displaying in front of falls. They don't know they are middle aged, or are completely oblivious to how they look. It's so easy today to find comfortable, casual clothes, but many people settle for less. At lunch - after a shower to settle the heat -- had buffet & beer and afterwards simply checked out - sound asleep [[end page]] [[start page]] on bed. At 4:00 Tom roused me out. I very reluctant to wake up but realized the rationale -- we are at Iguasu' after all. Got up again & went for a helicopter ride over falls. 5 min for $25. ea. A long wait while a German tour group went, but gorgeous views circling left, then right. Just before sunset we repeated the walk all along falls - then another shower & dinner. We are out v. early in AM to catch a plane at 8:15 to Campo Grande. At Hotel los Cataratas our room, which is on back and not choice costs 178,000 Cr/day = ~ $41 per day. Meals - dinner w buffet & course Cr. 39,000 for 2 = ~ $8 or 9.00. A superior room, with view & better appointments would cost ~ 249,000 Cr. Don't know how to reserve them, tho. We requested a front room from Braz. Vacations. Our guide, incidentally, never showed at all. (Inflation rose at 12% last month.) [[underlined]] Friday, March 29 [[/underlined]] Knowing I had to get up early, I awoke in middle of the night and slept very little afterward. Our plane left at 8:15, we reserved seats to ride to airport at 7:30 -- seemed late but we assumed it would be OK. No one else was departing for Campo Grande, however, so they sent us in a taxi by ourselves. Good service. Checked in early at VASPy for Corumbá. No seat assignments so we were lucky to grab 2 front seats on left. Saw the great dam near Iguasu'. One hour to Campo Grande, where we set watches back to 8:15 and waited until 12:50. Decided to go into town & buy me a hat for shade, change some money, and maybe buy Tom some sandals. Dealt w a taxi for a