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two-hour ride (at 70,000 cr.). Then Tom got a page from VASP because his boarding passes said Cuiaba'. He talked w the woman about going to town & she was horrified at 70 000 cr. She said just take a taxi to town for ~$16,000 & come back when ready. We followed her advice & found Campo Grande a crowded, hot, & unattractive place -- no [[?]] anywhere, no cambria places (not a tourist or border area) not even an attractive ice cream place. We were carrying very heavy hand baggage too -- so back we went home (to airport) Campo Grande airport in v. nice. We bought a big map of Mato Grassa de Sol. w details of Corumba', there and had cold drinks on the terrace at 10:15. One hour later the restaurant was open & we had a v. good lunch of tongue Romana & tongue Madeira. Then it was time for our 45 minute flight to Corumbá. We got no window seat but, from a middle in front of wing, I saw El Pantanal - Incredible - green, watery, immense, with meandering streams, flooded road & so on. Saw Urucum & mts. S. of town. Corumbá airport solid, respectable cool, clean; nothing like the open wattle & plaster of 1950s - w graffitti in toilets saying -- "get out you American exploiters - O [[manganer??]] e vamo."

Quite a crowd left plane with us and in, midst of the crush, a man asked asked it this was Sr. Tomas. Here was the Fazenda Santa Clara rep. He packed us off in a little pick up truck. Stopped at exchange place, then took us to the office, He advised us to take as little as possible of our baggage, on the trip to the Fazenda includes a 2-hour ride in a small boat & 4 people were going today. So 

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we quickly repacked and took only my small plaid bag & my camera bag & Toms hand bag. Very compact; very hot, very tropical. Corumbá weather. We recognized very little of Corumbá; it is large & ~ prosperous & we passed through hurridly. The Grande Hotel looked v. old and weatherbeaten & the entrance appeared to have changed. A little blue & white church on the street beyond may have been Manley's church -- now labeled Baptist. The park looked bigger & more lush. We shall see more when we get back there. 

Then, about 2:00 pm [[plus minus]] began the voyage to Santa Clara. First in the pick up truck, with a young couple seated w the driver & me in seat behind. South past Urucum - beautiful views -- some mineral recovery going on, evidently of the iron. Santo Domingo cliffs - the Santa Cruz grasslands above, the Robicha range to the north; Sajuto, Albuquerque, [[?Matun]] to the S & West. A great sight for us. But this time we saw birds -- everywhere -- large & small. And here we stand with no good bird guide (none available from Drumlin Farm or Brian Cassie).

Lots of Caracara, black vultures, jays or cukoos. No possibility of identifying en route (but we will be back). After riding about 1 1/2 hours, we came to end of road & transferred to a (row)-boat with engine. The young couple loaded their stuff, which included all their food -- the 'boy', who speaks Eng & Port. says he [[underlined]] will not [[/underlined]] eat fresh food. We got front seats facing Sun & had a wonderful 2 hour ride. Made our own breeze, sun getting low, so we didn't need our hats or gloves. 

Transcription Notes:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maciço_do_Urucum