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(We wonder if tampering with our hormones to this extent could also result in pregnacy)? The afternoon was nearly spent & we repaired to our room to rest and admire the view--sent out some laundry to be done by tomorrow noon. Had dinner about 8:00 pm at the Churasscaria Rodeo, a very good place. Excellent conja and good grilled & garnished peixe. Left on our air conditioner, which gave us a cool bedroom. But, by the time we turned in we opened the windows to the fresh breezes & bright moonlight. Woke up once in the night & found strong wind [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] blowing from east, and slamming blinds all up and down the building. Suddenly, loud music came up from the street & a long series of songs. - what time was it? We've no idea. But well before dawn. Who would tolerate such noise in the night -- even tho the singing voice was beautiful. But it stopped & we slept until 7:00. I finally oriented myself by the sunset & moonrise. We are facing due [[underlined]] north [[/underlined]]. That is why we look at the river [[strikethrough]] but [[/strikethrough]] & pantanal spreading W-N-E but can still be in a city on the [[underlined]] west [[/underlined]] bank. [[underlined]] Wednesday, April 3 [[/underlined]] A pleasant breakfast on the patio -- floor below the 6-story "atrium" which is the centerpiece of this hotel--featuring the most luscious mamaõ weve had in years. Then we went out after a while to ask about a tour to Los Minos do Urucum, advertised by an agent across the street from the Pansoda Office. I never doubted I [[end page]] [[start page]] would get to Urucum this way and even ask for & get a sample of the manganese and iron. Yesterday, as we waited by the roadside for gas I took long looks at the grasslands above the cliffs of Urucum & Hippolita's Fazenda Santa Cruz. And picked up a piece or two beside the road. But tours to Urucum are over. For the present, at least, presumably due to high water on the roads. (But we saw a lotacão carrying workers there yesterday). Anyway, no tours. We found we could by a map of Corumbá in the shop beside our hotel -- wierd map without the parks or other landmarks, but w. a lot of information on trips to Bolivia and the Pantanal. Then we went for lunch to the [[underlined]] Grande Hotel [[/underlined]]. Tom had been there earlier when he went out to confirm our VASP reservations. The manager offered his services and told him to "just look around" as long as he liked. We had a delightful time. The dining room was just as we remembered it except for small details. The layout, bar at front, side door to terrace, little paned window to kitchen are all the same. Somebody was occupying our old front corner table so we sat at the third one next to a window. Outside the vegetation is lush --plants in boxes - wild almond trees, flamboyant grown tall in the park. We had pancakes -- on advice of waiter -- & they proved to be crepes (or enchiladas) w. hamburg & scallions & sauce. Also warm, buttered bread. Coffee -- hot & sugared and in a thermos. Looked around a bit. Took pictures of each other at the table. Found a room beyond the lobby -- a sitting (and game?) room we did not remember. Out on street we found familiar house with