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panes of colored glass - street completely canopied with big flamboyant branches. Soft, warm shade, with a sprig or two of flowers. Must be an incredible display when flowering. [[strikethrough]] Sh [[/strikethrough]] This really is our town. We think we could have stayed at the Grande Hotel, and probably should have, but doubt if we could have seen the pantanal from the windows there -- the trees are too tall.

We stopped at our room awhile, then went out [[strikethrough]] th [[/strikethrough]] to the museum of the pantanal, one block away at the Ministry of Cultura. Three or four rooms of historic documents, things made of leather, clay, wicker, stuffed birds & animals (picked up hints on a bird or two, especially the great brown hawk we had seen), pictures of Indians etc. In general a rather sad show. Artifacts made in the region are poorly done and not artistic -- they suggest a certain poverty of spirit -- or possibly a lack of need to do anything well. 

Next, the Artezana store in the old presidio. Shops in what appear to have been prison cells. Some offices still in use -- a pond in the yard. The modern artifacts are also unimaginative lacy doilies, embroidery on hemp, feather decorations ([[?barrows]]), T shirts, etc. We bought a fan & 2 postcards. 

Took a picture of an active sugar cane press in the street, much to the delight of the customers and proprietor, and bought a bag of oranges & some bananas from a fruit stand. 

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We watch TV for the Portuguese -- very flamboyant soaps & daily news about the health of President Tancredo, who has had 4 or 5 operations at age 74 after his election but before his inauguration. 

Went out to the same restaurant as last night for more conja - excellent as ever -- and [[strikethrough]] omeletts [[/strikethrough]] omelettes. Decided to order wine & expected it to be lovely. We were offered red, pink, or white -- no list. Took white. Got a bottle of Brazilian Liebfraumilch, already opened, in a cooler. Tom tasted it & took it, but neither of us liked it. Speculated on whether it was actually spoiled (my opinion) or bad to begin with (Tom's). A strong yellow with a vinegary quality. Then we discussed the cork floating in the bottle. We don't know whether they open them that way, whether this was "house wine", or turned back by somebody else. In any case we felt it was too late to make a fuss, and we didn't want to begin again. It was a dumb idea to imagine that wine could be shipped out here and stay good. 

Back home watched [[underlined]] Duel in the Sun [[/underlined]] for the 1st time. I think it was made when we were in Brazil before.