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[[underlined]] Thursday (Holy Thursday) April 4 [[/underlined]]

After the bright sun, clear skies, golden sunset and moonlight -- perhaps one day short of full -- with the rabbit showing clearly and the glow damping out the stars, except for Orion and α & ß centauri - we awoke to a gray, overcast morning and watched showers race toward Corumbá from across the River. Two of them before we got down for breakfast. Afterward I repacked completely; putting all my warm clothes & Chilean artifacts in the pink case which I should not have to open again until we meet the U.S. Customs. Clothes for Rio in the larger plaid case, and odd items & shoes in the little one. I have had my blouses & slacks laundered at the hotel and they look beautiful. I am in good shape to leave for Rio.

At noon we took a taxi down to the old port to a restaurant recommended in the S. American guidebook. German proprietors &, presumably German cuisine: E. L. Pacu Wide open doors showed a table with 4 or 5 men playing cards and some tables with cloths but no settings. Tom wondered if we should stay. German maps & posters on the walls showed it to be the right place -- a massive group of murals depicting the Pantanal and Urucum also decorated the place. An elderly, dark proprietress told Tom they had peixe for lunch, w rice & beans etc. We hesitated. Then her young daughter asked what we would like & offered us a bife. We decided to stay

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Thus began a most authentic lunch - Carumbeuse. We took the fish -- a pintada - todays special. Then our waitress brought the full setting: plates, glasses, forks, spoons, salad oil, and a jar of fiery sauce. We realized we were sitting in a stiff and rather cold breeze originating from a rotary fan over our heads. We moved over one table & solved that problem. First came mandioca, cold; then, a plate of boiled potatoes, peas, & tomato slices; then beans; then peixe - several slices rolled in corn meal and rock salt & fried. It was very good. Our waitress was most interested in us -- asked what country we came from - thought the U.S. so far away. Later asked each of our names [[strikethrough]] practiging [[/strikethrough]] practicing her English in the questions. She was beautiful, dark, with wavy hair & a warm smile. I wanted her picture. Tom took out his camera & snapped a flash of me. Then we asked her to have her picture beside me. She protested & demurred & objected sweetly, at which her mother came right up to pose with me -- arm around me and a big smile. I concluded that the German of the establishment was the white-haired man playing cards; concluded I was right when the matron went over & sat beside him after leaving me. 

After lunch, we took some pictures of the old port & walked home. There were light showers off & on, but we still planned to take a taxi to photograph Urucum and look for birds this afternoon -- We thought it might be clearer away from the river. But first Tom wanted to change some dollars. [[strikethrough]] The first [[/strikethrough]] Two trips to the Turk found his place closed - after the second one, however, a man

Transcription Notes:
bife = steak