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427

Wed. March 30   

Tel Aviv.    
Caesarea}
Jaffa}

Caearea & the old Roman fort against the blue green sea was magnificent. What past glory it recalls. And then, in the afternoon to ancient Arabic town of Jaffa - also full of noble ruins, picturesque enough to make one wish to paint realistic landscape again.

One could remain here & work happily for a lifetime. Simply enchanting. Jaffa's ancient towers and warm ochre buildings against the blue of the sea & sky - unforgettable.

In the evening, Mary Yazir, Bracha's old friend, came to visit with me for an hour. Asked me to see Zalman Shazar, former minister of Culture, in Jerusalem & give him her regards. Then Jacob & Helena Oleiski came over & we went to the café Roval where Itzak Haskin joined us. We had a pleasant time there & then I had a walk & talk with Haskin, who still speaks of my portraits of the Rabbis. He & Oleiski both have invited



428   Jerusalem.   Wed. March - 30

me to their houses for Seder night, in case I cannot attend the services at the Kibbutz.

Thursday, March 31.

Up at 6 AM - packed & waited for the car to take me to Jerusalem. Left at 9 & reached Jerusalem at 10.30. Again, on the way, I marveled at the tremendous labor done on the land where all had been desert rock, now green & blooming. Always,, the surprise of seeing new settlements, which they tell me are built only during the past two yrs & always, sturdy, sun browned, bearded Jews, working the earth. The type we have read of in the Bible. One must admit, we are not a beautiful people. Nowhere I have yet seen a face which was arresting. Only the children, mostly blond & blue eyed, are charming & promise hope for the future, as well as the youth of the land. Just as we entered the city, we came upon a religious funeral. Hundreds of religious old Jews with their long, grey sidelocks & young chassidim, also with shoulder long sidelocks, in the traditional costume, were following the hearse. It was so solemn, I was deeply moved by the sight. Came to the Eden Hotel to find Dr. Leo Eisner of Hadassah (director of Vocational Education) waiting