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466
April 14   Rome

first chariot races were run; the Roman Capitol, the ancient murals - one of which Jan photographed for me. Christ on a washed out, textured wall- from afar looking like an abstract painting. More ruins here than in Athens - altho nothing can be more heavenly than the white marble Acropolis, gleaming in the sunlight.

Lunched at Alfredo's, at the tomb of Augustus & then took a long walk along the banks of the Tiber River to St. Peter's again, to visit the church & to see the treasures of the Vatican. Afterwards café expresso vasso at a cafe & after dinner, a cab & horse ride to Café Doney's for a quiet hour or two, to watch the passers-by.

Friday, April 15.

Jan again wanted to meet me at 8.30 AM. Since he is not interested in Art, I planned the morning for myself. Took a cab at 10 AM to the 

467
April 15 Rome

Borghese Palace to see the art collection which was disappointing, to say the least. The building itself is a work of art, however. Every inch of space covered with intricate ornamentation. The floors in patterned marble, the walls painted & with insets of sculptures, the ceilings gilded & brilliantly painted with murals, gilt edged. To Imagine paintings and sculpture amidst all this - impossible! Fortunately, there are no outstanding examples of art - Perhaps Titian, 'Sacred & Profane Love' & Rafaelo's 'Burial of Christ'! The light was so poor, & the rich ornamentation so oppressive, I could not appreciate properly their qualities. Enjoyed more the marvelous parks surrounding the palace & the patterned squares of flowers & greens. (Violet, yellow & white flowers edged with green.

After a while, a horse & buggy again to the Gallery of Modern Art. (Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna) Surprisingly good show, sponsored by