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538  May 9. Madrid.

Back scenes. - The enfermeria for the toreros & for the horses - stables, etc. Avenida de los Toreros, Plaza de la Independencia Cibeles, Paseo de la Castellana, Nuevos Ministerios, Estacion de Chamartin, Paseo de Ronda, Glorieta de Cuatro Caminos, Estacion Metropolitano, University City, Puerto de Hierro, Cuesta de las Perdices, Carretara de El Pardo, West Park, Plaza de la Moncloa, Princesa, Plaza de Espana. At the 'Mirador de Castilla' restaurant, located on the top of 'Edificio Espana', Europe's highest building (next door to my Hotel Plaza) we stopped for a snack and a view of the city. A complete panoramic vista of Madrid.

Again, too tired to do anything this evening. Bathed, washed my hair,  wrote a letter home & prepared for bed - Tomorrow, Toledo - from 9 AM to 7.30 P.M - & an evening with Senor Juan Armilla, who telephoned earlier to invite me as well as for the bullfight on Friday


539  May 10'  Toledo.

Up at 7.30 AM. Walked to the office of the agency at the Plaza Callao & had breakfast standing up, American style, at the Cafeteria California. The cafeterias are all the rage here. Amongst the people taking their cafés - two generals, resplendent in their uniforms, medals, red ribbon sash across their breasts & white gloved, taking their café with the rest. Large glass of pure orange juice, pastel (danish pastry) & wonderful coffee (2/3 hot milk) all for 12 pesetas or 15¢. At 9 AM - the bus left for Toledo. Toledo's importance from the artistic point of view is so great that the city entirely was made a historical monument. Permission must be granted by the government for new housing, which must be built to specification in the style & architecture of the ancient city. The Bridge is 9th century - some buildings 11th Century - the whole city like a museum of great beauty. No wonder Greco was inspired to paint his famous landscape of Toledo (Metropolitan Museum) as well as his view of Toledo - which hangs in his home. His beautiful house, which was also at one