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 May 10   Toledo-

time the home of Samuel Levy, the wealthy Spanish benefactor who donated funds towards the building of the Escorial, & who had a private synagogue built in the house for his use - as well as underground cave passageways from the house to the river, where it is reputed that the hid his treasures & also helped the escape of Jews from the Inquisition. Individually, I noticed that El Greco's studio had two windows, one on each side of opposite walls - but no skylight! What would our long suffering artists say to that? Our génios, who can't paint without skylight. After Samuel Levy, the house was occupied by a nobleman who changed the synagogue into a chapel. The beautiful Moorish ceiling still has the decorative star of David, however, as a record & a memory.

The city is all of greyed ochre, the color of the rocks on which it is built - & the austerity of its color enhances the 



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May 10 - Toledo

purity of its architecture. From the Hermitage of 'Our Lady of the Valley" one had a magnificent panoramic view of the city against a cold, greyed blue sky, & the dull yellow of its river.

We visited the church of Saint John of the Kings' (Florid Gothic) very beautiful with a most unusual cloisters. The delicacy of the carvings of flowers, animals & angels on the pillars, and the beautiful wood work of the Moorish ceilings. Then, on to the Synagogue La Blanca (formerly the Synagogue of the poor and 'Transits', the Synagogue of the rich. Both splendid examples of Moorish architecture & design. No one detail repeated twice.

Forgot to mention that Greco's home is now a museum as well and houses the portraits of all the Saints as well as his View of Toledo. Of all the great masters only his saints are truly Santos. The others painted Madonnas & Saints - who