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542  

May 10  Toledo

were men & women of flesh & blood. Only his figures have the unearthly spirituality we associate with the Sainted.

The Church of 'Santo Tomé' has the 'Burial of Count of Orgaz - Greco's masterpiece. A glorious work.

Finally, a visit to the Cathedral, with masterpieces in various styles and a long visit to the Alcazar, scene of the heroic siege, now a ruin, with men working on the restoration. Heaven alone knows how long it will take. Every stone represents such long, tedious & delicate work. Simply unforgettable.

Lunched at the 'Hostal del Cardenal' with young, 25 yrs old Donald Palmer, of the U.S. Marines, who was my neighbor on the bus. Nice, simple fellow from upstate New York, near Ossining.

The trip to & from Toledo was interesting as well. Passed several small villages - white washed small houses, stone walled all about - with the women at the village


543  

May 10   Madrid

pump - doing their washing in the great stone tubs or at pumps - with the wash spread to dry on the ground & grass. Souvenir of Burma and Delhi.

Came back to the hotel by 8 P M - in time to change for the evening at 9 P.M - with Juan Armillas of Barcelona.

We had dinner at las 'Cuevas de Luis Candelas,' home of the well known bandit, who robbed the rich & gave to the poor. Muy flanuso with the waiters all in gypsy attire, muy pittoresco y gitano. Guitar music of course. Strolled through the picturesque square & narrow streets of Old Madrid and then went to the 'Gran Taberna Gitana', a typical Andalusian night club. After the show - at midnight - on to another very chic nightclub - beautiful room & floor which rises several feet for the show - Better than anything we have in New York & beautifully presented - flamenco & classic dances & singers. All really excellent