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CHAPTER SEVENTEEN HAIR SINGEING, THINNING, AND CUTTING By observing all of the rules of hair culture, the hair growth is promoted and the hair is stopped from falling excessively, the coming in or gray hair is delayed, and the hair is kept healthy, bright, glossy, and lustrous. When the ends of the hair are badly split and broken, there is evidence that the hair is lacking in vitality and is poorly nourished. To correct this ailment, by sealing the hair again and removing the split ends, the process of singeing is employed. The benefit derived is similar to that which results from the trimming of a tree or a plant. The ends are trimmed that the roots may grow stronger. The hair should be singed every three months. In cases where the hair is very badly split, singeing is advisable with every other shampoo. Some authorities claim that the hair should be singed before the shampoo inasmuch as there is always some odor existing after the hair has been burned. We advise singeing after the shampoo for several reasons. Any disagreeable odor arising from the singeing of the hair is caused by the dirt, grease, and stale perspiration that is in the hair before the shampoo. Then, too, when the hair is oily and dirty it sticks together, and it is difficult to singe all of the small ends. If the hair is singed after it has been cleaned, the odor leaves as soon as the hair comes in contact with the air. PREPARING THE HAIR FOR A SINGE. After the hair has been shampooed and made free of tangles, divide it into parts just as is done before the scalp treatment or in the scalp cleaning process. The hair should be divided into at least eight parts or even sixteen parts, if it is very heavy. The operation is performed upon one of these small portions, or parts, at a time. PROCESS OF SINGEING. First take one of the small parts that has already been divided and twist it until it is tight. Hold the twisted strand with the left hand and rub the right hand up and down the strand in order to frazzle out all of the short ends. Then with a lighted waxen taper or a closely folded paper, proceed up and down the length of the twisted strand with the flame. This must be [[image]] Singeing the Hair 150 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE done quickly, but the process is not so dangerous as it appears if the operator keeps her mind on the operation. There is very little danger of burning hair that is twisted tightly. Repeat this operation on each portion until the entire head has been gone over. Avoid allowing the flame to come in contact with any loose hair as burns may result from such carelessness. After each portion, or part, of the hair has been singed, cut or burn the end of each twisted strand. After the singeing process is completed, brush the hair vigorously to remove the scorched fragments and the odor from the hair. If the hair is clean, any odor left in the hair will soon disappear. When the hair has been thoroughly brushed, apply Madam C.J. Walker's Wonderful Hair Grower to the scalp. Finish off the hair by pressing, curling or waving with Madam C.J. Walker's Glossine, seeing that each strand is well covered with the Glossine. When the hair is split and small ends may be seen protruding along the hair shaft the condition is technically termed TRICHOPTILOSIS. Very often a small knot may be seen near the end of the hair shaft with the split hair extending from the knot and the hair breaks off where the knot appears. This condition is termed TRICORRHEXIS NODOSA and is remedied by singeing and should be treated by frequent scalp massage and hot oil treatments. HAIR CUTTING Hair Cutting or Bobbing of the hair presents one of the most pronounced changes that women, both young and old, have made in their personal appearance in ages. To bob or not to bob is a momentous problem confronting women in all walks of life. A patron will invariably ask the operator whether she should bob her hair or not. This is indeed a difficult question for the operator to answer because oftimes the entire personality of the patron is changed, and if the operator made the suggestion, she is to blame. In spite of all that may be said, bobbed hair is the outstanding style over the entire country and it has its distinct advantages. It is sanitary, convenient, and comfortable. It demands almost constant attention, frequent waving and cutting. This fact alone justifies the style as far as the beauty culturist is concerned. Then, too, the patron is also benefitted by this constant demand for attention. The art of hair cutting in which expert workmanship is the foundation, can be acquired only by instruction from competent teachers, and by patient practice on living models. Confidence and skill in the use of the hair-cutting tools are essential. The contour 151
