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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

4. Turn the wrist over and by so doing invert the iron, then loop the free end of hair underneath and over the point of the iron.

5. Shift the fingers from the top of the iron to underneath, push the iron forward and continue to click the hair around the iron. Two loops of hair will be formed around the iron with the free ends of hair between them.

6. Continue to roll and click the iron over and under until all the free ends of hair are within the prongs of the iron. Place the Marcel comb underneath the iron, and roll the curl close to the scalp. Slide curl off iron carefully with the comb.

7. Proceed to curl the next portions of hair in the same manner until the entire head has been Croquignole Curled. The customer's head will then be a mass of curls resembling the Bob Curl under.

8. Apply a small amount of Mme. C. J. Walker's Brilliantine lightly to the curled hair. Starting at the bottom, comb out the curls, a layer at a time and brush the hair downward. Push up the hair until the creases or waves are visible, then proceed to set the waves by fingering the creases as in a finger wave. Make the dips to and from the face as in Marcelling.

[[image - Setting the Wave.]]

[[image - Croquignole Curls Over the Entire Head.]]

[[image - Brushing the Hair After Lightly Combing Out the Curls.]]

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

HINTS ON MARCEL WAVING

1. Do not expect to become a waver in a month. Waving is an art which comes to one after long continued practice. It requires much patience, but patience is the first milestone in the pathway to success.

2. When a new iron is purchased it will give better service and retain the heat longer if it is first heated until red hot and immersed in oil. This is called tempering the iron.

3. Always be sure to use a hard rubber comb or one made of some non-inflammable material when marcelling.

4. A hot iron should never be plunged into water to cool it, as this hardens the steel; and to hold heat best a marcel iron should be of soft steel.

5. Marcel irons are ruined by frequent dropping to the floor and by continuous overheating.

6. A gas or alcohol flame is best for heating Marcel irons.

7. Two irons heated moderately on a low flame are better to use than one iron heated over a high blaze.

8. Do not take up too much hair in learning to wave. A portion one and one-half inches wide, and one-half inch thick is quite enough.

9. Never use too much oil on the hair. If the hair is naturally straight apply oly a very small amount of Madam C. J. Walker's Glossine or Brilliantine. If the hair has been pressed no additional oil is necessary.

10. Do not use too little heat. Marcelling, it is to be remembered, is a process of baking a wave into the hair. Without sufficiently heating the iron this is impossible. Use enough heat, but never too much. 

11. After marcelling, allow the hair to cool before combing it.

12. When the wave is finished, push up the hair by placing fingers in the creases of the waves and pin in place. Curve the dips in and out of the face with hair pins. Curve the dips in and out about the face with hair pins. A light spray of liquid brilliantine will add gloss to the hair and have a pleasing effect upon the customer. 

13. Tell the customer to push her wave up and tie the hair up each night with a sleeping net.

14. Marcel irons should be cleansed with steel wool and a little oil. This should be done once or twice a week with an occasional rubbing with sandpaper. Avoid sharpening the edges of the iron, lest they cut the hair.

15. Keep your mind on your work until the steps of marcelling

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