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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

the hair lightly.  In giving this curl, make certain that the hair has not been pressed too straight.

CHILDREN'S OR LONG CURLS——This was perhaps the most familiar mode of hairdress for little girls in former years.  It is still appropriate for children and is sometimes used by adults for parties and balls.  Round curls are made by dividing the hair into even strands all over the head or that part which is to be curled.  Each strand of hair is wrapped flat around the closed marcel or curling iron which has been heated to a moderate degree.  Allow each wrapping of the hair to overlap the previous wrapping so that no spaces are left unwrapped on the iron.  Allow each strand to remain on the iron for about a minute, and withdraw the iron, by pushing the curl from the iron with a comb.

PUFFS OR PSYCHE——Puffs are adaptable to many uses.  They may be made simply by rolling a portion of the hair around one or more fingers, depending upon the size of the puff desired. Roll close to the head and pin.  If the puff is small, use invisible hair pins.  If large, slip medium-sized hair pins inside of the puff, at both ends, as far as possible.  Pin through the inside wall of the puff to the roots of the hair.

FAN-SHAPED HAIRDRESS——This style of hairdress is very graceful and becomes girls and matrons.  On misses or girls, the fan looks best arranged just medium high on the head; on the matron it looks best arranged high on the head.  The fan may be made of plain or curled hair, and the front portion may be arranged to suit the fancy of the wearer.

This is done by first parting the hair from ear to ear across the crown of the head.  Marcel or dress the front section in the manner desired.  Raise the back hair to the crown of the head and fasten it with a string at the height desired for the fan.  Pick up the front half of the back portion of the hair and after "ruffing" it, roll it toward the head and pin it securely.  Pull the ends of this large roll down behind the ears and fasten them securely with medium-sized hair pins.  Roll the front and side hair over this foundation roll, pinning it to the roll in the front and rear each time a fold is made.  After the folds have been made, take the remaining half of the back portion of the hair which has not yet been dressed, and with it, make a horizontal figure eight and pin crosswise beneath the fan.  Two French Knots are sometimes worn beneath the fan instead of the figure eight.

PINEAPPLE OR ROSE PETAL BOB——This is a unique dress for bobbed hair and is becoming to many, though not considered 

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

dressy.  It is made by giving the bob curl up all over the head and picking the curls apart lightly with the fingers.  The same effect can be obtained by croquignole curling the entire head and not combing the curls out, simply leaving them as made and arranging them lightly with the fingers.

THE BISQUIT——This is a style very popular now and is especially becoming on persons with thin faces.  It is a style of hairdress that adds breadth to the face of the wearer.  The bisquit is made by coiling or braiding the hair and then twisting it around into a knot and pinning it securely over each ear.

THE FRENCH KNOT——This is a neat style which may be used for arranging the hair both high and low on the head.  This style gives the patron a well-groomed appearance, and is executed by coiling the hair on the back of the head, turning the end over the strand and bringing the end through the loop, back to the nape of the neck or over the ears. The matron should wear this hairdress moderately high at the back of the head.

FIGURE EIGHT——This style is usually placed straight up and down on the back of the head.  It adds height to the wearer, and is especially suitable to persons with short necks. Several of these figures may be made over the head by making them small or using less hair in each strand.  A figure eight is made by coiling a section of hair, picking the ends up with the left hand and placing them on the crown of the head and with the right hand, twisting the loop three times and pinning securely.  If more than one figure is desired, continue in this manner until you have the desired number of figures.

HORIZONTAL FIGURE EIGHT——This is the same style of hairdress as has just been described except that the figure eights are pinned horizontally instead of up and down.  The figures are made the same and placed singly or in rows flat to the head.  In making these figures the loops should be of uniform size.

THE CABLE KNOT——This is a style of hair dress especially suited to the teen age girl.  One or two knots may be made and worn together separately at the back of the head or low on the neck.  By use of the cable knot a thin head of hair can be given the appearance of a very liberal growth.  Take the hair at the lower back of the head and divide into an upper layer and lower layer.   The upper layer is backcombed its entire length. The lower layer is combed and brushed smooth, with the left hand tightly holding the backcombed layer of hair, use the right hand to roll the brushed hair over and around loosely, until all the back-combing is on the 

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