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stage of the Rhine steamers. In the morn we went out on a voyage of discovery. Had no more idea what Cologne was like than nothing at all. We struck a store where they spoke english and bought a guide. Went to the cathedral. The guide, I mean the one at the cathedral, spoke a little english and it was very amusing to hear him stuff us up. It seems that the old thing has been building since 1200 or something like that. It dont make much difference they were all built somewhere about the time of Christ, to let the natives tell it. This is the finest one in Europe of the style. Every one we have struck has been the [[strikethrough]] finst [[/strikethrough]] finest one in Europe. We get quite use to seeing the finest one in the world in every city in Europe. The guide says. Diz vas given by Granna. Gence. Farima und gost dri undred douzandt mark. That was a window in the Cologne cath. Then he told us about [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] de bones off dirteen douzands virgins and all that stuff that they spring on every tourist. I only wish I could tell you half the stuff that they tell us. I think it would amuse you. I'll try when I get home. We saw the zoological gardens and fed the elephants and the keeper did some tricks with the lyons and tigers and expected us to give him something of course. They all expect something

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yesterday aft. we started up the Rhine. It was terribly cold but we stayed on deck till after dark to see the scenery. I must say I was disappointed in the said Rhine. We got to Coblence at 9.30 and put up. The hotel is right on the bank high above the river. It must be lovely in summer. We went out and walked about till about 10 and then went back to bed as we were obliged to start early this morn. We got into Frankfurt about half past eleven and as we missed the train for Munich we had to stop. We start at 10.15 tonight for M. 

We have been out to see the town. It is raining guns and awfully disagreeable but I think it is a nice city [[strikethrough]] to [[/strikethrough]] much prettier than Cologne. The streets in C. are narrow and dirty and many of them have no sidewalks: here they are broad and have nice sidewalks. There does'nt seem to be any originality about these cities: they all seem to be bad copies of Paris and all have a cathedral. The minute I see a Cath. I know that it is the finest in Europe. The one at Cologne was started somewhere in the 13 century and was finished a few years ago. It was at one time used as a stable by the french troops who stole the led roof and sold it. There are no walls; it being built with colums and between the colums stained glass windows. It is very pretty and looks like a big frosted cake, with all its spires. It is about 135 yds long and the largest Gothic structure in the world. Same old story. 

Inside it is in the form of a cross. I cant say I care much about these old places. they give me the blues with their painted figures of Crusifictions and saints. They are ghastly old holes and I dont see how the people can stand them; but they come in and kneel down and put on a Sunday face and pray by the hour. We dont have time for such things at home and I am glad of it. I dont think it is a healthy kind of religion. 

The Rhine is a good deal as