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dancing and the people outside the platform looking on made a grand sight something entirely different from anything I had ever seen before.  They had an electric light on a building in one corner of the square which they illuminated the whole square with and it seemed almost like home to see it.  You know they don't use it here nearly as much as they do at home.  In fact they don't use any of the modern conveniences that we do.  The people who were watching the dancers were packed in like sardines and it was much as your life was worth to get from one end of the square to the other.  After the illum. there was a grand mask ball at one of the theatres but we didn't go as we were too tired.  The balls here don't begin till 12 oclock and one of the waiters told us that it was no use to go before that and that about 3 or 4 the thing was at its height.  The proprietor of the hotel is quite a gentleman of leisure and never comes home till 5 or 6 in the morn.  That's the way the swells do here, they get up in time for lunch in the middle of the day, then go out and sit in a caffé and talk, smoke and drink till dinner time, go home eat dinner and then out for the eve. or morn. as the case may be.  We haven't quite got up to that style of evening thing yet but are beginning well: we go to bed at nine or half past and get up at eight and am sorry to say we are getting fat.  We are having some dude cloths made here by a dapper italian tailor, he wears a checker board suit and striped trousers and gaiters.  A suit of the very best cloth he keeps costs $29.  I am having one of some of the finest cloth I ever saw for that price.  He got a medal in Melbourn for