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sheets and pillow cases changed today by special request - For rooms as cheap as these they only expect to change them once a month - but I paid them for the luxury of cleaner ones— We took our dinner as usual this evening in the Café Luxembourg - I wish I could give you any idea of the funniness of that performance. I enclose a rough diagram of the bearings of it. At six every evening we plunge in by the door on rue Vaugirard about 1½ ft wide down two or three steps and along a narrow passage past two small rooms B&C with tables for private parties and into D. which has five little tables laid out with the neatest service - there are red velvet seats along two sides of the room and L. & Th always go to the table in the corner— G is a door with curtains and two or three more steps down into the Café where at the tables at the side the same respectable pere de famille-looking men come and take coffee and play a sociable game of cards every evening before they go home to dinner - and never look at us— The restaurant [[right page]] other wise at that hour seems to exist for us— We are always alone and have the whole attention of the garçon and landlord - and our plates changed (knives and forks also.) five times for 30 cts apiece— Our host is bald, fat, red-faced and has little black eyes— And comes with most overpowering sweetness of manner to enquire if "les dames soit bien?" - "La Salade est bonne?" "Oui très bonne m'sieur" "Bon"— "Et après cela?" and then he explains one of his French dishes for us and insists on the proper pronunciation most politely — goes to the window (E) where apples pears and pomegranites [[pomegranates]] ly in a kind of green [[?]] and picks out a big pear - for our dessert - And if he brings us some particularly nice stewed fruit for a treat and sets it before us him self he is perfectly begiggled with pleasure— The other night he suggested that les dames should have "fromage [[strikethrough]] pour [[/strikethrough]] comme dessert" and when our garçon brought us "Fromage de brie" and Rochefort & we did'nt like either of them and had