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room upstairs, & I have this downstairs, next to the bath. After breakfast at the lodge we drove over to Seal Cove (beautiful open, rock studded, long wide band of sea - low tide darkness - like Oregon?) then farther south to Southern Head - (lighthouse, dark columned cliffs, a crescent bay of dark shingle). Then back at 11 am to the main highway, & over, northward across the island - 6 miles of rough road to Dark Harbour! (at last!) not as rugged as I had imagined - rather mild, the cliffs not too high or percipitous [[precipitous]], gentle with a covering of spruce & pine, but the long stretch of a spit (creating a sheltered bay in which 2 herring boats chased herring into a weir) was very interesting. It was studded with the tiny colored shacks of dulce gatherers.

Back to the Lodge for lunch, then over to Swallowtail Light - a very dramatic headland that reminded me alternately of Kilauea on Kauai and White Head of Monhegan. The rocks, the grey-golden-green grasses and the wildflowers (asters, especially) were almost exactly like Monhegan's, and the changing warm sun & cold drafts of wind also were like Monhegan's. Are all lighthouse headlands the same the world over? Then another road (Whistle Rd) across the northern end of the island down to a strange spot on the rocky shore, also like Dark Harbour, fronted by a long embankment (of rocks) on which were