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whole smithy need large depth of focus - hence small aperture + slow shutter speed 
[[footnote]] sh sp 30,60,125,250,etc.[[/footnote]]
get several extra batteries, keep in separate plastic containers,
Kodak Tri-X (ASA Tri-X [[crossed out]]16[[/crossed out]] 400)
don't take light reading till have focused camera
4 variables
a. aperture (f-stop)
b. shutter speed
c. film speed (ASA)
faster the film, the less light you need
d. fastness of lens

for very dark situation need fast lends, fast film, aperture maximum open (small [[not equal sign]] stop), slow shutter speed can add 'pushing' the film (don't develop in Gorgia - ASA 400 can be pushed to 1600)
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tape camera so won't forget
for color use high speed Ecta-chrome (ASA 120, can only push up to 400)
outdoors- use daylight film, indoors
Tungsten- hence must choose when buy  - if use Tungsten outdoors result will be blue

if photographing objects on ground try to get up high ie stand on chair, reason want plane of film to be same as plane of objects so don't get varying depth of focus - or get max depth of field (16 or 22)

125 is a sle hand-holding speed
lower speeds have to watch breath + motion carefully
keep elbows in braced against body + if can lean body against something even better
brace camera against both brow + cheek

[[margin]]buy[[/margin]] rubber disk which fits over viewfinder window - will make light meter reading easier - make sure eye is pressed up against window when