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penjahit get only 40Rp per stel - 1 penjahit can make 10 stels a day, working from 8-4 with one meal 2 [circled] next visited large ready-to-wear [[underlined]] establishment in same desa, along main road owned by a young + obviously very well-off entrepreneur named Sochib Achmad - beautiful new house with carved wooden doors etc. estbl. uses 5 pis (bolts) of cloth a day @ 30,000 = 150,000 for cloth only make children sets + pickets, ladies blouses, stricts + dresses - aimed mainly for lower to middle-price market - spend 80,000 a day for thread, fittings, trims, etc. - generally work 6 days a wk. - sell thru setoring with bakul pasar all over Central Java - are 15-20 langganahs per pasar in 6 pasan - buy cloth in kudus, also fittings + trimmings in stones or from wholesalers 105 - system hutang - piutang ie goods given to bakuls w/out payment but seller receives payment when drops off next load of goods - buys cloth from 1 Chinese + 1 pribumi large wholesalers - he says we are 40 pengusaha in the desa who are registered but 200 who are "liar". - this fact of "liar" establishments makes govn. statistics very suspect - once registered subject to various taxes - are 8 large cloth wholesalers in Kudus from which all or most of pengusaha get their supplies - ((imp in dissertation to look at links between small + large units)) -type of cloth used Matex, Nagatex, Vanistex, all dalam negeri (made in London) - reason pengusaha don't buy cloth directly from factories but work through wholesalers is that factories don't give credit but wholesalers do