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and needs rechecking)) -work done by woman includes: 1. memolet (bobbin winding) 2. kilos (spool winding) 3. menyatri = nyolet = mewarnai (local color applications ((hence cloth dyed only a single time for base color and additional colors applied locally)) 4. Mengupas ikatan benang (untie raffia used for ikat work) 5. menjahit/menyambang - sew the pieces of cloth together down the middle - done by hand - in case of the imitation Sumbra cloth this must be done in the way real Sumbra cloth is sewn -work done by men includes: 1.dying 2.menohani/ngebum (winding ways on beam) 3. memasang benang (threading up) 4. menenun (actual weaving) 5. mencari penasaran (marketing) -types of products made: 1. imitation Sumbra cloth - a heavy weight double cloth, all cotton ((recheck))with ikat designs of horses, lions, etc. 2. imitation Bali cloth - lightweight rayon sarong in light + bright colors, also ikated 3. teluk bayur = gold stripe = glitter ((latter term used by foreign traders e.g. Joy Freeman who export to the U.S. + Eu. market)) a brightly colored gauge with strips of gold thread which resembles Indian cloth - very popular among young westerners at the moment 4.Plain white cloth (cotton, rayon?) sold to Solo, Yogya + Pekalongan for batik + embroidery work - formerly did some plain white silk on order, but not being made anymore ((Pak Subekti, head of Dinas Perind. Central Java, showed me some of this - really beautiful quality silk)) raw materials: rayon thread all comes from a single source, Pasan Klewer in Solo market controlled by a large Chinese importer named Kin Tai, who