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Fashion Forecast
"That's not my bad," said Bill Blass. "I've always felt that Americans should go their own way. What I've tried to put across is to make women look young, snappy and attractively dressed."
Calvin Klein has a similar outlook.
"There are no peasants in my collection," he says. "The collection is not ethnic in any way: it's American; it's about modern clothes."
Arnold Scaasi emphasizes "pretty." In his ready-to-wear, which is restricted to cocktail and evening clothes (he does day styles in his couture or made-to-order designs), the focus is on "very pretty clothes, nothing tricky-the kind of clothes women feel comfortable with."
He has made a big point of designing pretty necklines, which include fairly daring low cuts, and is particularly fond of long torso lines with either short or long full skirts. He has used a lot of rich fabrics, including black velvet, but he supplements these with relatively quiet draped jersey dresses. 
Among retailers, Lynn Manulis, the president of Martha, is able to reconcile the two views.
"The Europeans need to make grander statements," she said. "On the other side of the Atlantic, there are different vibes, different attitudes. Russia and Eastern Europe are very close to them: this colors their attitude and is reflected in their clothes. Valentino is perhaps more understandable to us, and his Etruscan clothes pull from the art world a special flavor. Saint Laurent's Scottish and African clothes give us a bit of whimsy, but there are also wonderful suits that I think will become best sellers."
American designers provide a solid, wearable base, while the French offer fantasy and whimsy. It is a good mix which gives women a chance to express themselves in their clothes without sacrificing practicality. This might turn out to be the message of the 1990's. 
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