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throwing one down the mountain horse & all- My horse staggered under the fierce hail laden blasts & I was glad when we were past the narrowest stretch.

As we got lower down on the slope the shower drifted away to the east and covered all the mts. in that direction with a heavy blue-black wall across which occasional flashes of lightning played irregularly.

Getting into the foothills it was evident that only a very slight sprinkle had fallen. Hurrying on we began to meet people coming out from the market in the town & as night fell found ourselves on the plain some distance from the village. The road could be made out very dimly & so we kept on until after an hour or more we reached the town. The streets were unlighted & it was only after groping about for sometime that we at last found the meson & got quarters for the night. As soon as the landlord saw me he at once recognized me as an american & took me to his best room - a huge whitewashed chamber with rows of chairs along the walls & a huge clumsy bed of carved wood.- He began to expatiate on the comfort & grandeur of this room when I cut his eloquence short by announcing the fact that I was nearly out of money & wished the cheapest room he had- At this he led us to a smaller but comfortable room where we put up. My moso then cooked some food that we had with