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of the clothing requirements of the women pilots. It indicated that certain deletions and changes in the items originally contemplated would result in simplification of the program as well as in a saving in cost and time in manufacture without sacrifice in the performance characteristics of the outfits.50 Thus, knee-length, wool socks were eliminated, since ankle-length, wool-rayon underwear was provided. One item used as a dress shirt for both summer and winter replaced the originally suggested two items. For the trigger-finger mittens and inserts, a simple leather mitten and knit insert were substituted as more practical, cheaper, and simpler to produce. The zipper was eliminated in the shot jackets for winter and summer wear. These changes were concurred in by the director of women pilots. The OQMG made fabric selections suitable for the clothing being developed. Samples were submitted to the Director of the WASP for approval.51 For the winter dress uniform, a 13-ounce, wool gabardine was selected and a 10 1/2- ounce, tropical worsted was chosen for the summer dress uniform. These same fabrics were utilized in the winter and summer two-piece suit of slacks and short jacket developed as functional clothing. These were also the fabrics used for the winter and summer berets. For the work coveralls 8.2-ounce cotton twill was used. Although a sky-blue shade had been decided upon tentatively by the AAF at the beginning of this program, the final selection of color was a medium blue called "Santiago blue." As developed by the OQMG, the dress uniform of the WASP consisted of a six-gored skirt, and a three-button, single-breasted, belted jacket, having two upper and two lower inside hanging pockets with buttoned flaps. All jackets and coats were made with shoulder straps. This was the design for both winter and summer dress uniform. With the jacket and skirt a white shirt and black tie were worn. The shirtwaist, of the convertible collar style, was made of preshrunk, mercerized, single-combed broadcloth. For operational duty a blue shirtwaist might be worn. Shoes and utility bag were matched and made of black calfskin. The service shoe was designed in an buckled strap, monkstyle rather than the conventional oxford.52 A smart utility bag, box-like in design, 11 inches long by 3 1/2 inches wide and made with an adjustable shoulder strap, was developed for the WASP.53 Summer gloves, made of a white, washable fabric in a plain design, were authorized for wear although not procured by the OQMG. Winter dress gloves in black leather to match shoes and bag were provided. A beret made by Knox completed the dress uniform. The OQMG also designed and developed functional clothing, which was worn for operational duty only. A two-piece, slack suit for summer and winter wear was developed. The slacks were a tailored design made without pockets. The jacket was a short, waist-length style, having two patch pockets with flaps. This was the type subsequently popularized as a battle jacket. The design developed from suggestions made by the Director of the WASP, provided for a concealed, buttoned closure in place of the originally desired zipper.54 Work coveralls, made by Frederic J. Dormer, were developed in the usual one-piece, drop seat design. [[image - photograph]] [[caption]] WASP Slacks and Battle Jacket [[/caption]] 50 Maj. Gen. E. B. Gregory to Headquarters, ASF, Oct. 11, 1943, "Status of Procurement of Clothing for WASP." 51 See, for example, Louis L. Weitz to Jacqueline Cochran, Sept. 22, 1943, and reply, Sept. 24, 1943. 52 This shoe was made by the J. P. Smith Shoe Co. of Chicago, Illinois. Though they were the makers of "British Walkers," they were not able to capitalize on this fact because of a confirmed policy of the OQMG against using brand names. 53 The utility bag was developed in cooperation with the Coblentz Bag Co. 54 The WASP battle jacket was developed by S. Augstein, Inc. 150
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