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[[image - photograph]]
[[caption]] Mr. Williams and his guide, Fred Brown, holding the thirty-pound salmon which the Farmington angler caught. [[/caption]]

and I must make the rest of the voyage in her.

"Karluk", which is the Esquimo word for fish, is a 40-foot, twin-screw cruiser, built for me by Gray Boats of Thomaston, Maine, in 1928. She has a comfortable stateroom forward, and berths for three in her cabin, and is a fine and able sea-boat.  Her maximum speed is something better than 17 miles per hour and her cruising speed about 12 miles.

A few mornings after leaving "Maraval", "Karluk" headed down the bay on her way to her first Labrador port, Battle Harbor, The run along the Newfoundland coast and through the straits of Belle Isle is not one to which navigators look forward with pleasure. The gulf in places is well over a hundred miles wide, harbors are few, and fogs frequent. However, by carefully watching the weather the passage can be made even in a small boat with comparative comfort and safety.

My crew consisted of two men, an engineer, George Jerrett, and a cook. James Fry, both Newfoundlanders who had been with me on previous voyages.

We had good weather and steamed along the Newfoundland coast all day. At midnight we were close to Greenly Island, where the German airship "Bremen" was forced to land a year or two ago.

The experience of the German airmen was a thrilling one but not as tragic as that of the "Old Glory", which left Old Orchard, Maine, in 1926, and was lost off the coast of Newfoundland. I have a piece of one of the "Old Glory's" wings presented to me by the captain of the steamer sent out to search for the airship, and who discovered some of the wreckage in the vicinity of the Grand Banks.

Sight Labrador.

At daylight, which comes at about half-past two in the morning this season, we got our first glimpse of Labrador, the Bradore Hills,...0 to 1,200 feet high, and of our...iceberg. These icebergs brought down by the Labrador current f... the polar regions, are in evid...  all summer. I have counted... many as fifty at one time. They make night sailing hazardous, ap... of the fishing vessels sail at ... unless it is moonlight.

We were now in the ... of Belle Isle, and, as I wanted to try a salmon river on on the New ... and side that I had never visited .... ran across the Strait, here not o ...  or 15 miles wide, and anchor ... a small harbor at the mouth ... the river. We explored the river ...  four or five miles from its mo ... and returned to the "Karluk" ... with 18 fine salmon.

A half day's steaming be ... us to Battle Harbor, so named ... use here was fought, years ago, ... eat battle between the Indians ... Esquimaux. the Indians and ... aux have always been deadly ... nbies and still have nothing to ... ith each other, the Indians inhab ... the interior, while the Esquimaux ... ine their hunting and fishing ... the coast.

One of Dr. Greenfell's severa ... ospitals is located at Battle Harbor and does a fine work. A well-known Hargord young woman was a volunteer nurse at this hospital several years ago.

Salmon Plentiful.

Not far from the harbor is a good salmon river, where we spent several days and took a considerable number of salmon. We were told that the run of salmon on the coast this season was the greatest in years and I could readily believe it. At another harbor I saw a number of steamers being loaded with fresh salmon for shipment to England.

My real objective was a camp I have owned for several years on a river 100 miles or more north of Battle Harbor. So we pushed on and two or three days later anchored near the south of the river. It was a hard trip up the rapids and over a portage with our supplies for a two weeks stay in my log cabin, but we finally accomplished it.

The cabin looks out across a wonderful falls and the rapids below it. A walk of two minutes and one can begin fishing. The fishing was all that one could ask.

I am almost ashamed to state how many salmon we took in the two delightful weeks spent in this camp. At the end of each day the fish were split and salted, and suffice it to say that I left with my native guide three barrels for the winter consumption of his family and friends.

Insect Pests Abound.

My largest salmon taken from this river weighted thirty pounds.

I am often asked about the mosquitoes and black flies in Labrador. These are bad enough and one has to fight them constantly while fishing. If it were not for these pests Labrador would be a paradise in summer. Near the coast they are not usually troublesome as it is too cold and it is, as a rule, only at the heads of the bays and on the rivers that they are particularly exasperating.

In 1928 I had been to the extreme north point of Labrador, namely Cape Chidley, so this summer I had no particular incentive to go far north. The northern part of Labrador, however, is the finest from a scenic standpoint. It is there that one finds the greatest fiords and the highest mountains, the latter rising from 6,000 to 7,000 feet, almost out of the sea itself. Their summits are always snow-covered.

After leaving my camp, where I had such successful fishing, I proceeded another hundred miles north to Indian Harbor. This was where the world fliers landed in 1926, and here also is located one of Dr. Grenfell's hospitals.

Dr. Grenfell had arrived in his mission boat "Strathcoma II" just before I came to and her, and I had the pleasure of an hour's visit with him. He was as inspiring and full of plans for improving conditions in Labrador as he always is.

At Indian Harbor.

Many Newfoundland fishing schooners stop here, at Indian Harbor, on their way north or south, and it is often a busy place. In the vicinity are numerous streams abounding in salmon and sea trout. Two weeks were none too long to visit some of these, which afforded excellent sport. In one pool I took six beautiful sea trout whose combined weight was eighteen pounds.

The days were now getting perceptibly shorter, and the time had come all too quickly to think of the 1,200 or more miles to be retraced before bad weather set in. Consequently, one fine afternoon the "Karluk" was pointed south on her homeward trek.

A good many days of fog and strong breezes made the return voyage rather slow. In crossing from Newfoundland to Cape Breton a high wind and rough sea made it prudent to anchor for twenty-four hours in the lee of St. Paul's Island. This island lies about fifteen miles off Cape North, the extreme north end of Cape Breton. It has been called the grave-yard of the Atlantic because of the number of wrecks that have occurred there. Near where the "Karluk" was anchored were the graves of 200 persons who lost their lives in the wreck of an emigrant ship many years ago.

The only inhabitants of the island which is barren and desolate, are the families of the lighthouse keepers and the three or four young men connected with the Marconi wireless station. Few vessels call there and there is no mail or communication

Transcription Notes:
These periods symbols in between some words indicates that the newspaper is broken or ripped and I can not see the words in those places.