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varieties of yarns which I wove into models and sent back. In Sanford, at Elmer's request, I studied the company's library of photographs showing designs used years and years earlier. I found that some could be revived in up-to-date color combinations.

As for achieving the hand loomed look with machines, it seemed to me two essential factors were essential. One was the yarn. I believe the appearance of a woven fabric starts with the spinning of the yarns which should be designed for beauty and serviceability, just as cloth is designed. One of my most talented weavers, Kamma Zethraus, went to work on her Swedish spinning wheel and developed new and different effects, one of a kind of undulating look, which the Goodall spinning machines duplicated. Secondly, the essence of the mechanical problem was to "relax" the machines so that the finished fabric would emerge in a softer and less tightly-woven form. At the same time, we changed the cadence of the power looms,