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11/28
[1961]

Dear Esther,

Today was a funny day - one you might have liked. You may have heard of the strike of the government civil employees. They created a dark & slow moving day for France - no electricity, no gas or heat - no transportation. It made the little shops & cafes charming all day with candle light, but was a hardship on other workers - no daylight till 8 AM, and the hotel lady told me they all carried candles as they walked to work (no street lights or traffic lights either). So it was no hardship on the rich people. Strange to look out on this courtyard of 7 stories at 8 AM & see candles moving - candles everywhere & the smell of tallow. When I came in at 5 PM I was given candle - it served a most useful purpose - heating up a Coquille St. Jacques! All usual lights & heat finally restored at 5:30 - transportation was to go for another 12 hours. Such a quiet day it was - none of the usual hurry, for it was useless, except on foot.

As Tuesday, & days for museums to be closed (which I always forget anyway sometime during day) went off to Hotel des Invalides to visit Bony's tomb. On way ran into St. Clotide, entered, it was also drizzling. How I love these Paris Churches - this one was sullen & sombre quiet - nice reliefs for the stations of the cross & nice rose windows, as usual.

At Hotel des Invalides another ceremony encountered - this time a wedding - white gloves & crossed swords - guard of honor & many many smiles inspite of spitting ally & the dreary Cannon & tanks out front.

Napoleon's tomb rather shocked me, so much santity for such a bastard - the same signs "this is no museum, but a church" "show due respect" (maybe more) there as in entry of Notre Dame. I loved the interior space & areas - especially the cool blue