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Takaoka,
June 26/95.

Dear Mr. Hecker:
 
Experience is gradually teaching me how to travel in Japan; what to see and how to look at it. 

The more closely I follow Japanese customs in ways of travel, food, etc., also in places to visit and in seeing things from their point of view the greater my pleasure. When a real Jap (-not the half Europeanized cuss-) wants to have a good time and that occurs whenever he has money enough, he hies himself to the country, and the great temples, and picturesque little spots in the mountains and along the seashore where he always manages to have a gigantic hurrah --- Ample opportunities exist and everything goes--- no not everything! I seriousness, care for the next day's head or the bank sect. are always barred. And this was the life of old Japan and this explains their love for the butterfly in the ancient art. Butterflies they themselves would now be if free from foreign influence, foreign imitation--- a simple light-hearted, and tremendously artistic people. I wonder what they will be in a century hence? Their art at least, will be entirely changed and probably worthless. By this, I mean their hundreds of things artistic and at the same time utilitarian. Of course, the way of a people has nothing whatever to do with art in its very highest form. 

This trip is taking me to some very delightful old art centers--- Daimyo towns with their ruined castles, ancient gardens and splendid tree line lined roads. And I am receiving charming little hospitalities and seeing many fine things. 

Jinrikisha travelling beats all other methods!! Think of a human horse who will haul you one mile or fifty per day--- whom you never overdrive and seldom tire, with whom you can eat, drink, smoke, sleep and [[underlined]] live with pleasure [[/underlined]]. I have six such chaps with me now--- all fine fellows--- one cooks excellently--- another speaks a little English and teaches me japanese--- Another does the hard drinking for the crowd, a fourth flirts with the country girls--- the other two sees to it that I interfere not with the perogatives of the fourth--- They all have  surprisingly good judgment in matters artistic, especially my two Kioto men--- When we go shopping they put on good clothes, and ride in jinrikisha, and look wise and handsome enough. The Curio dealers are fearful liars and swindlers, as a class, but my gang generally equals the worst. It's great fun and I really am having a good time, and am securing a few mementoes worthy of a more intelligent, appreciative owner. Yesterday I saw the first foreigner I have met since leaving Kioto two weeks ago---