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traffic.  The Spanish do not travel!

The hotels average much better than I had supposed from the reports of many travellers. 

Public cabs and conveyances for either city or country travel are very good.  The Mules, horses and cattle of all kinds are usually of good stock and seem to be well fed, but often cruelly worked.  Fruit of many kinds is plenty and cheap.  Native wine is good and much cheaper than in France!

But the great drawback to the future of Spain seems to me to be the widespread ignorance, indolence and apathy of its people.  When you add to such characteristics supreme cruelty you have a combination of little value when put in competition with such powers as Germany, Russia and Japan, not to mention England, France and America. Even Italy, including her southern people, seems a real live and happy land in comparison.

But for the principal objects of my visit:- painting, architecture, sculpture, gardening and landscape beauty, the serious student can find endless joy. The buildings, tiles and various existing arts of the moors, the sculpture, weavings and metal work of the early spaniards, the paintings of Velasquez, and the garden making and forestry (including irrigation) done one hundred years before and after Velasquez's time must always hold a very high place in the strongest forces of civilization.  And what is also fine, is the fact, that all of what remains of such rare value is accessible to every one in the most generous way.  The great Prado museum has voluntarily offered to open its doors to Coleman and me at any hour of day between sunrise and sunset --- a compliment of distinction to Coleman coming from Villegas the Managing Director - but not at all uncommon. Equally free, are all Royal palaces and gardens, and I might add all public and private institutions; manufacturing and otherwise.

Tom remained with us until the 4th inst. when superior attractions in southern France, including Lourdes (?), hurried him to his island home, which seem to attract him more than anything else.

I think this week will nearly end out stay in this land of unceasing interest and contrasts. After Madrid, we have only Burgos to visit and with that accomplished, we (Coleman and I) go directly to Paris.

Tom left warmest messages with me for yourself and family. Coleman wishes to present similar greetings, and with them both in all I join.

Very sincerely your friend
Charles L. Freer

P.S. Kindest remembrances to Cam, Geo. Russel and all engineering friends. I wish I had time to write to all. I am quite well again and happy but have to be pretty careful of my strength.

Long hand.