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12

no stateroom so we had to keep our bags always with us.  

[[image-black and white photograph of church]]
[[caption]] Cathedral, Ancud. [[/caption]]

The sea was flat and there were some clouds but plenty of sun.  We have seen porpoises every day and today saw seals (or according to one passenger, sealions) for the first time.  The gulls that follow the ship are very handsome, white with black wings narrowly edged front and back with white.  (Herbert Friedmann later identified the species as Larus dominicanus Licht.).  Also there were many cormorants.  At Chalao men came out to the boat bringing baskets of large sea urchins for sale, about 25 urchins for 12 pesos.  Several baskets were bought by the cook and many of the passengers bought baskets.  I watched the people breaking open the urchins and eating 

[[image-black and white photograph - small launch mid-river]]
[[caption]] Landing passengers at Calbuco from the Lemuy. [[/caption]]

the gonads, with or without salt and pepper.  There was a salesman, a young German Jew, aboard that I had talked with some.  When he saw that I had not bought any urchins