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[[written sideways on left-hand side of sheet of paper]] energetic. I expect to teach rag time dances here and have little doubt but that I can do it. I shall begin very business like to advertise and then wait for the customers! The place is clearly more healthy than Paris – dry – cold – fresh. One does not see a fifth or a hundredth of the number of Americans here. I caught a terrible cold coming up on the train and can't speak aloud. My spirits are high nevertheless – Stopped off at Cologne on the way and found it to be the most wonderful – old city. There's a cathedral [[insertion]] there [[/insertion]] that is the finest I have ever seen – the first one that ever moved me emotionally. It was very unexpected - just when one comes [[end sideways section]] [[end page]] [[start page]] later with it. The fact was that the circumstances in Monparnasse were deplorable. I couldn't do anything there. Germany exceeds all my expectations. This is the first place I have been thrilled with – thrilled to tears. It is a joy and I am enthusiastic beyond words. Everything seems to be developed more than any where. Energy – force – abounds in the air. The newer architecture excellent. Streets big and clean – shops handsome – original and all material advantages without any of the stamp of grossness or commerciality that spoils everything in U.S.A. Theaters - photography – music – years ahead. And there are signs of a most flourishing art – full swing. I am quite folle here – feel much more
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