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11

^[[on]] board the last two days, and have had only a little bread and coffee since and do not feel hungry.----- I wired Frau Schneider. Oh, but it will be a comfort to hear Deutsch again.
In Oesterreich, zwischen Salzburg und Linz, Marz 22.---- The train is stopped for a while and I have admired the picturesque dorchen (seems to be a woodyard) which shuts out a wider view. It was so late when we left Paris that I did not see much of France east of Paris. The trees were not pruned as they are in Normandy, so I could guess a few of them, I think. This first-class compartment I share with an aged French woman of mountainous proportions. I am squeezed into about 12 inches by the window, while she sits with her legs stretched out on the seat (as if on a day-bed) with her feet against me. She is arrayed in satin and diamonds, so of course her manners must be perfect, as it does me proud to have her wipe her feet on me. It is dreadfully cold, and I have my cloak on and everything else I possess under it. Her daughter, baby, and nurse occupy the next compartment. When the fat woman does not have her feet on the seat the whole family are in this compartment. The baby is a perfect darling, and the nurse, about as old as the grandmother but thin and active is picturesque. The young mother is also richly dressed in what I should take for evening clothes, low-necked and quite sleevless--when she lays aside her fur coat. They are going to Prague. They asked me something in French and in my effort to reply I let slip a word of German. The grandmother asked if I was Allemande. I hastened to assure her I wasn't, but only Americaine. My first sight of the terrible Huns was about midnight, when we crossed the frontier. I handed down my passport from the upper berth. The berths are spoon-shaped. I kept waking with a crick in my neck every little while.----- With my map of Europe in my hand I can keep track of where we are, so I recognized the green, not blue, Danube, the calm, not rapidly rolling, Isar, and