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108 [[underlined]] on top a monument to the assasinated Queen of Austria, [[/underlined]] who seemed to like this spot better than any in her kingdom. There is a restaurant. Then [[underlined]] slow return in the dark. Evening went to movies, understood nothing altho' the film was American. [[/underlined]] Best seat 50 cents U.S. [[underlined]] Preferred [[/underlined]] it to listening [[underlined]] to Hungarian Jazz music in hotel [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Sept 27. Good Hungarian Champagne costs about 80 cents American [[/underlined]] a quart in the [[strikethrough]] b [[/strikethrough]] very best hotels. [[underlined]] Ordinary wine - red or white is very good. [[/underlined]] Some of it is Rhinewine type other is [[underlined]] French [[/underlined]] type. Then best dish is Gulash ^[[Goulash]] best of all Calfs Gulash [[end page]] [[start page]] 109 Their [[underlined]] sturgeon also is good. [[/underlined]] Below my window is the [[underlined]] Danube and little white steamers come up and down [[/underlined]] the river some going to [[underlined]] Austria or Bavaria, [[/underlined]] others to the [[underlined]] Balkan Counties to the South. Current [[/underlined]] is strong. Now and then an occasional [[underlined]] raft of logs floating down stream [[/underlined]] well arranged and chained together, run by 2 men the logs arranged as follows: [[image: drawing showing pattern of logs forming raft with extensions labeled "sweeps" and "rudder"]] They carry [[underlined]] two long sweeps on the bow [[/underlined]] made of a long pole terminated by a flat rudderlike piece and one ditto at the stern. Left for [[underlined]] Triest this evening. Wagon lit, [[/underlined]] hired whole compartment for myself. Gushing